LIBRARY OF.CONGRESS, 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



A NEW INSTRUCTOR FOR 



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Orchard and Field Culture. 



THIS BOOK GIVES PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS ON 

Natural Forcing of Vegetable and Fruit, also Out-door Culture for 
Garden, Orchard, Vineyard, Field and other Culture, 

WITH A REMARK FOR 

FRUIT-TREE NURSERY.— How to Layout and to Keep. 



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LEA5URE=GR0UND5 



Insects, and Other Causes of Sickness, Remedies, Etc. 



EDITED BY 



G. N. H: MEYER 



n Mk?. 8 1888 V C 



KANSAS CITY, MO., 
1887. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year i£ 

By G. N. H. Meyer, in the Office of the 

Librarian of Congress, at 

Washington, D. C. 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 









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IPIEBIEIF-iL.CDE]- 



I have concluded to prove, with a description written on Culture 
for the Garden and Farm, by experience, gathered through a toilsome 
course of years, to publish, while yet time and in memory able to do so, 
which will be a great benefit to the public concerned in Garden and Field 
Culture. 

I was poorly educated, and only in the German language, I under- 
take the writing of this volumn, which, I hope, will be easily understood by 
any one who takes an interest in this branch of industry, and feel in need 
of advice or to be instructed. But I beg to be excused, if any one finds 
some parts should have been more clearly written. 

As this branch of business needs to be improved according to the 
wants of the great increase of the population. So much land is under 
obligation to great chances, many are compelled to look for a new field to 
locate on to follow this branch of business, and good advice may not be 
unwelcome, but will lead to an advantage with little doubt. Concerning 
fencing, laying-out and division for practical convenience, and stock it so 
that the nature of the soil and position will suit the nature of all which will 
be planted and cultivated, no matter whether for market-garden or for pri- 
vate use. Beginners are, in general, of moderate n.eans, and should select 
that that for the most part be suitable land for the culture intended to be 
cultivated. 

Further advice is needed to guard against the weather according to 
the climate, regardless of season, while sudden changes in the temperature 
often results disasterously. If guarded against by foresight, for which to 
study about the weather and climate, which is necessary to guard against 
the changes of the different winds and weather by natural forcing (hot-bed- 
ding), an early out-door culture; otherwise, if such atmospheric changes 
are unobserved, damage is sustained, especially in a climate of extreme 
changes. 



Those who only want to follow this branch of culture, don't need, 
and perhaps don't like to lay out money for books or manuals, with mixed 
descriptions as to floral culture, about which they take no interest. 

Change of position for all vegetable and other is unavoidable, and 
the change of seed, as well, from time to time. 

Only special pieces of land can be afforded to let lay idle, or as a 
pasture field, until it has regained properties suitable to bring good crops 
again when re-cultivated. 

Farmers have found out long ago that change of position with culture 
is more profitable and unavoidable. Prefer change of crops rather than let 
it lay idle three or four years, or grow without any change, worthless crops. 
Manure is often used to force crops without any success. 

The farmer has to follow the same theory in culture as an industrious 
and experienced market gardener does, who visibly improves or (betters) 
himself by less good land and weaker means. 

When selecting, avoid swampy, undrainable, stony, or high-broken 
land, but advise do good aluvial soil with different positions, easily accessible 
to good road not too far from market, with a prospect for sufficient good 
water. 



ZETizesst ZP-iL-^T- 



The laying out and dividing of the land need to be done by the desire 
with what the land shall be cultivated, stocked, according to the difference 
of positions. It does not matter so much as to soil while possible to 
improve it. 

Different ways to build fences are known and put up according to 
the means on hand. The cheapest known, is of planks and barbed wire 
fastened to well seasoned dry solid-put posts, the bottom part brushed over 
with vitriol, or painted, and planks close to the ground to prevent rabbits 
from getting in. The parts which need to be protected against high and 
cold winds should be planted with osage orange, which also makes a strong 
live fence. Next are the picket and board fences. High, heavy fences do 
not last so long as light ones of good material. 

An easy, accessible, conveniant drive to the roadside with a tasteful 
shape to buildings, is advisable and necessary. Change all good soil on 
drives, make suitable materials for, like clay, small rock, slate, cinders, etc. 
Form (lay) the borders between drives and ground with ten-inch wide 
seedless sod, or part; and especially about the vegetable patch, with dwarf- 
ish aromatic herbs. 

A row of useful trees should be planted outside this border to 
protect yard and buildings, which may be sweet chestnut, sugar maple, white 
birch, etc. 

The nearest south slope to building may be stocked with grape-vines, 
(how to plant it, see vine culture) and a north-westerly slope is best adapted 
for apple orchard, especially of tough nature for outside rows; next to this may 
be planted of less high growth, and so to the east, or south-east side where the 
position is protected for pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, plums and small 
fruit, such as currant, gooseberries, raspberries, etc., may be planted a 
single row between apple trees, when planted not nearer than 40 to 45 feet. 
One row of blackberries will find room between the fence and outside row 
of trees, which is a suitable position for them and can be better managed 



6 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

than when in a patch. Strawberries may be planted in different positions; 
for early, on a sunny, open, low position; middle crop may be planted where 
a little protected against the noon sun; for late crop, in a more protected 
place, of latest varieties. Asparragus, rhubarb, seakehl beds may follow on 
nearly level ground, 

A piece of ground should be selected accessible to the main drive in 
the neighborhood of the barn, where hot-beds shall be located which shall 
be protected by a substantial, good size shade, to store and shelter all per- 
taining to the hot-bedding part and garden. Pools, tanks, cisterns, 
should be at the place near to, and hold as much water, if posible, as needed 
through the hot weather, if no pool is near with running water to depend on. 

How to plant small fruit trees and small fruit. See General planting. 



SzECOInTID IP-^IECT- 



Natural Forcing, Hot-Bedding and Pertaining. 

Hot-bed frames, sashes, mattings, board cover, heating materials, 
earth, garden, composed leaves, moulds, sods, earth, sand, are required to be 
ready under protection, unfrozen, in a moist state, before operation, when the 
laying can begin. Besides, fresh vegetable seed to be at hand. First, such a 
quantity fresh, steaming horse manure for the space, to cover with a certain 
number of sashes, to be ready, as well as a quantity of dry oak leaves and 
fresh air-slaked lime. 

The laying of hot-beds begins already late in the fall, by maiket and 
first-class private gardeners. 



Construction of Single Frames. 

Seasoned, fat yellow pine i to 2 inches thick. The size of frames 
should not be above 16 feet in length, nor more than four sashes 4 feet wide 
and six feet long. The frames shall be 2 to 2}^ inches smaller than the 
length of the sashes to handle them easy on the frames without any other 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 7 

means, while frames remain longer sound as when nails or screws are driven 
into. The frames shall be well joined, solidly put square together by- 
means of hooks, wedges, or spiked together. Three-cornered strips, two 
inches thick; one shall be fastened in each corner. A strip of 23^ inches 
wide by 1^ inches thick, with the lower corners rounded to be let into the 
frame where two sashes join, the ends at the strip shall be cut in shape of 
a swallow's tail, and of course, be even with the top of the frame which holds 
the frame in shape and drains the wet of frames under the joint of the sashes, 
especially when a slight groove is formed in the middle of the strip. 

Whenever a frame is set on a place for use it shall be square. Pegs 
shall be driven, in and outside, near corners, and where sashes join near to 
the height of the frame to prevent its moving by its filling, and when neces- 
sary to raise it. 

Double frames should be made of some good material, solidly put 
to strong (pegs) posts driven into ground, so that a single, or outside frame 
will fit over, which shall be a few inches higher than the inside one. 

This double, or inside frame, prevents damaging (disturbing) plants 
when necessary to raise the outside one, when plants need more room under 
the sashes. All frames differ in height to the nature, or height of plants to 
be grown in them. All frames shall be built to a standing square (slope) 
about 12 by 20, oiled, painted with good paint, or a solution of vitriol, 
applied to prevent rot. 

Sashes. 

They are ordered to be made of best and well seasoned pine of 2 
inches in thickness, with or without a finish, where they know how to 
construct them. 

Board cover shall also be made of 1 inch thick, clear, well seasoned 
lumber, about six inches longer than the sashes, with a 1 inch square strip 
under each end to hold the board in shape, and prevent sliding on the 
sashes. On top of each board shall be a 3 inch strip, the length of the board 
to cover the joint, to keep off all wet. To paint this cover, won't be useless. 

Straw-matting (cover) to use on sashes under board cover by cold 
weather are constructed of rye straw, cut with the sickle and not too hard 
threshed. It should be cut before ripe and not bleached at all. They shall 



8 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

have the size of a sash, but 10 inches longer, to prevent the cold to get under 
sashes. 

To form them, screw a form made of inch strips two inches wide to 
a floor, 4 feet 6 inches by 7 feet 6 inches in size; put a nail in the middle, 
top and bottom, one at 9^ inches from the middle nail, another in the 
middle of the two on the small side of the strip; fasten tight, oiled, strong, 
twine (cord) on each nail, from top to bottom; leave twice this length 
loose, lay a small bunch of straw on the tightened cord bottom part out- 
side, one on each side left and right ears together at a measure of 4 feet 5 
inches. Tack the loose cord and bring it from under the stretched cord, 
and draw a moderate tight half hitch over the straw, and so fastened to the 
top or end, loosen the cord from the nails and fix well together, mat al the 
bottom end and trim it before or after to the size of four feet. It is a r neap, 
good cover to last several years, by careful handling; 15 pounds of straw- 
will be required for one, and 100 feet ofcord; made in one hour. 

The Filling of Frames. 

The place where frames are placed shall not be a wet one, and pro- 
tected against cold winds, free, open towards south and east. If a frame 
is put over a dug-out space, put first a layer of shavings, fine brush straw, 
spread fresh and steaming horse or mule manure over, mixed with dry oak 
leaves, according to the heat required to season and nature of the plants; 
tread it down foot on foot to be all over the same medium solidness till full 
to about 5 or 6 inches. Cover with sashes and board cover, when cold. 
Examine in about 36 hours if manure is steaming equally under the sashes; 
if so, uncover when mild, sow y 2 bushel fresh air-slaked lime under four 
sashes, dust the sides as well, after some oak leaves, mixed with manure, is 
put when much sunken; then put coarse screened earth, the proper quan- 
tity, and mixed to suit the nature of plants. The earth well leveled, sow 
a few lettuce or radish seed. If those begin to grow, sow the whole bed; 
label every variety of seed, and when sown, sprinkle with soft water and 
cover up. 

If the heat (steam) under any sashes should be too high, let some 
escape, which will prevent to blind the glass. All seed sown in hot-beds 
shall prove genuine, by tasting them, and be sown in lines across the bed, 
marked with an edged-strip, more or less deep and wide, to give room 
enough according to the size of seed and nature of plants. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 9 

If manure should prove too strawy and dry, use boiling water by 
the filling of frames. If nearly strawless, mix with oak leaves, which will 
take up part of poisonous steaming horse and mule manure. A pointed 
piece of wood as a tester can be stuck under each sash to test the heat with, 
without to uncover by unfavorable weather. If they are found warm enough 
when taken out and tried, it is time to sow when not so cold. 

The Mixing of the Different Earth and Sand, and the Quantity 
of Earth Needed to the Different Varieties to Cultivate on. 

For lettuce, celery, carrott, radish, cress, peas, use one part leave- 
mold or hot-bed earth and two parts sandy garden earth; sand should be 
nearly one-fourth. 

The thickness of this bed should be 7 or 8 inches. For lowest kind 
of plants use lower size of frames, as the highest for cauliflower, for which a 
double frame is best. 

Plants which are forced by about 55 or 60 degrees, more or less, 
like cauliflowers, cabbage, varieties, which need substantial soil, mixed 
with only one-fourth of sand, can be forced by the said number 
of degrees. Cucumber, melon, beans, need a porous, light, rich, sandy- 
like soil; cucumber, melon, needs a thickness of a bed of about ten 
inches, to be forced by about 80 degrees of moist, close heat, while beans 
require a bed of only 7 by 9 inches, grown by less heat, and like much air. 
Pepper, eggplant, tomatoes and plants of same nature need two parts of hot 
bed earth, two parts rich, sandy garden earth, and about an eight inch 
thick bed. 

If any hot-bed should prove to be too hot after been layed, sowed, or 
planted, by danger to burn the root, punch 3 or 4 i^£ inch holes into the 
bed to the bottom under each sash through which the dangerous heat will 
escape, but fill these holes as soon as danger is over. Should a bed cool 
off too fast, prove not hot enough when noticed in time, renew the rim 
around the frame and put such a quantity of fresh, hot, steaming horse 
manure around to heat through the frame. If too far cooled off that the plants 
have a flatry look, by being, or having moist enough, change the plants 
into another suitable hot-bed. Persons unacquainted with this, seeing the 
plants in a flatry-like state and without examining it, think to be too dry, 
do probably water too well, which will prove worse, or fatal. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Rims around every frame of the same heating material to the top of 
the frame shall be solidly made when laying the hot-bed and renewed 
whenever necessary, according to weather and season. Such rims and hot- 
beds prove hottest by wet, cold weather, and do often cool off too fast. 

The different degrees of heat are needed to force. Cabbage, turnip, 
rooted cabbage, cauliflowers, beets, peas, 50 or 60, melons by not less than 
85, cucumbers the same, beans, as already stated, by about 65 degrees. , 

For to force the three last ones, only one-fourth of fresh horse ma- 
nure should be used; two parts should be fresh boiled hops, and one part 
of dry oak leaves, mixed with the horse manure, which should be at the bot- 
tom. Fresh horse manure, or steam of same, is dangerous while it effects the 
red spider, and should be strictly avoided by beans, cucumbers, melons, straw- 
berries, and required to be separately forced. Earth and the quantity is 
specified. Cardoon, endive and leeck will grow up well in medium good, 
sandy garden earth, by about 55 degrees. 

What Degrees the Different Heating Materials Produce, and How 

Long They Will Heat. 

Horse manure 180, mule manure 170, will heat about four months; 
dry oak leaves, when a quantity of 15 inches thick, will last 11 months; 
fresh boiled hops 145, only last 10 to 14 weeks; refuse of pressed-out grapes 
will produce, in a 15-inch thick bed, 130, and will last 5^ months. Sheep 
manure 170, lasts only four months; tanner's bark 120, will last 6 months. 

The heat of these materials will rise and fall according to position, 
atmosphere, season, weather and climate. 

Asparagus Forcing. 

This can be done in different ways. The most natural is: frame in a 
bed in size of a hot-bed. From early in the fall cover the bed with leave- 
mould leaves and horse manure; cover it over with a board cover. By 
moderate Avinter weather asparagus will be ready to cut in 4^ months. 
When harvested, free the bed of all cover and fork in rotten manure. By a 
second method: Old roots can be planted in early fall, well watered down 
' with warm water; cover with fresh half strawy horse manure, sashes and 
cover, besides a rim of horse manure all around. By December leave only 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. u 

part of manure on the roots and treat it without any water like other winter 
hot-beds. Asparagus may be cut in about 3 months; these roots are of 
no more use. 

By a third method: Plant a bed of asparagus of three rows by a 
certain length of frames to put over early in the fall when three years old. 
Treat like last mentioned, they will bring a good crop. This bed will serve 
for several years when manured and kept well. A ditch be dug around the 
frame 18 by 18 inches and filled with fresh horse manure to the top of frame. 
This will bring the earliest crop, especially by moderate weather and sun- 
shine. No airing is needed. 

To Force Seakehl. 

The plants should be three years old. Clear the earth two to three 
inches from around the heel, then put a high frame around it, put a small 
portion of fresh horse manure around, over which place a wooden cap, of 
funnel shape, x / 2 to y± of an inch thick and fourteen inches in diameter on 
the inside at the bottom, and two and a half at the top; fill this with warm 
sand. Then fill (around) between with fresh horse manure and leaves 
which shall be covered with a good board cover. If done in January or 
February, and well done, sprouts can be cut the latter part of March. 
When sprouts are visible at the top of the cap, they may be cut; they grow 
from the old roots. After harvested, all may be cleared oft'; the ground re- 
placed around the plant and rotten manure forked under. 

To Force Peas. 

Plant strictly of dwarfish varieties in a hot-bed frame, or on a bed 
of some size to put a frame over. Plant in rows about fifteen inches apart 
in substantial, mellowv garden soil. Keep frost off by covering it with 
litter, sashes and board cover, which is only needed when raw, cold 
weather, but lift the sashes and give plenty of air when sunny and mild. 
Earliest dwarf varieties will produce a crop in less than two monthes. when 
partly sunny weather. 



12 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

The Forcing of Beans. 

Fill in a double frame with only one part of fresh horse manure on 
the bottom two parts of boiled hops mixed with dry oak leaves, when the 
heat of this, but untreaded down, is equally heated, sow first the lime, as 
specified, over which a bed nine inches thick of mellowy sod earth with 
one fourth of hot-bed earth is mixed, put with a fifth part of sand. Beans of 
choice, dwarfish kind are planted in rows fifteen inches apart; when up, no 
airing shall be done, except by sunny, mild weather, and no watering at all. 
Keep the bed hot by a good rim of fresh horse manure around the frame to 
the top; avoid the accumulation of steam from the horse manure, as it will 
have a tendancy to spoil the crop. 

To Force Melon. 

Only early varieties are chosen to be forced, like black mustard, pine- 
apple cantelopes, orange cantelopes, prescot cantelope and thenetz melon. 
Fill half pots with porous, dry earth out of rotten" trees; put two or three 
seed on it and cover, put them on some pots which are kept filled with hot 
water near a stove. When the seed have sprung, set, or put them near a 
window where warm and plenty of light can be had to prevent them from 
spindling. When about three inches long, plant in a well prepared hotbed; 
the filling of heating materials is about the same as for beans; one-third of 
fresh horse manure may be used and two-thirds of hops and dry oak leaves, 
only tread down the manure. The earth shall be of a light, sandy, rich 
nature; the thickness of the bed shall not be less than nine inches, which 
may be a mixture of compost, leave-mould and rich, sandy garden earth. 

Plant two plants under one sash nearer to the back or higher side, 
water them down with warm water, keep them closed and shaded, only 
ventilate when the heat gets above 95 degrees; plants to be on an oval- 
like place; keep the frame hot by a rim of fresh horse manure, but avoid 
steam of the manure to get inside the [frame. Sink one five inch pot to 
the rim, to which necessary watering has to be done; pool-water will not 
answer. Watering shall be done about one hour after sunrise, only evenly 
sprinkle the vines and in the pot to effect a moist hot (air) and kept shaded 
when the sun shines. When the plant seems to grow well, and are about 
five to six inches long, trim them off above the third eye, which will grow 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 13 

to be a fruitful vine; not more than four melons are to be left on each plant, 
and laid on shingles, glass or slate. Small pots with seed can be sunk to 
the rim to grow young plants. Seeds on ovals in such beds, three or four 
seed under each sash can be laid to grow plants of. 

Cucumbers can be forced in about the same manner. Only early 
varieties are chosen to be forced, like early fram, early cluster, dark green 
Russian, bonquet and the white Asiatic. 

Strawberry Forcing. 

This forcing can be done at little cost, if any one has hotbed frames, 
sashes and plants. They don't bear bottom heat, and will bear natural 
forcing better than artificial. 

Plant from spring to fall on open ground, and in pots young plants 
of early, choice varieties on suitable soil, rich and mellowy. Keep them till 
fall free from weeds, put a frame over the planted ones on the bed late in 
the fall, or plant in a frame about nine inches apart; put a light cover of 
leaves or straw, and, as well, sashes and board cover. With the beginning 
of cold weather, by January, clear off the inner cover; keep the cold off by 
a rim of fresh horse manure and a good cover. Let them have as much light 
and sun as the weather will allow, and all the air the mild weather will 
permit. 

This plant can be replanted, when put on a shady place to serve for 
the same purpose again. 

To Force Raspberries. 

The forcing of raspberries is hardly payable, but plant for fall on a 
protected, sunny-like place; of dwarf, choice variety, two rows standing 
heads toward heads, so that each of these rows will be about three inches 
off the side inside of the hotbed frame, when put over it with the points 
trimmed off and tight low down to strips which are fastened to pegs driven 
into the ground. To get a crop of them need to be treated like the straw- 
berries, with a rim around the frame of fresh horse manure sunk eighteen 
inches into the ground and ridged to the top of the frame. It has to be a 
high frame, to give them plenty of room under the sashes. 

Let strawberries and raspberries have plenty of moisture after fruit 
has set. 



i4 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



The Forcing of Grapevines to have Early Fruit. 

Grapevines of early, suitable varieties, to force, should be planted 
on protected, sunny positions. An early, dwarfish variety can be planted 
in a row, to put high hotbed frames over at the time when forcing shall 
begin. The fruit cans shall be tight down, that the canes with fruit on will 
have room enough under glass and be forced by means of a good rim of 
horse manure to heat through the frame and by the sun's heat. Practical 
attention has to be paid to leave only the canes with fruit on pinched back, 
and necessary shanks for the next year's fruiting. They do better by moist 
heat than by dry; so the heat of the sun is to be kept off by half shade. The 
syringing, or over-watering, is needed every evening after sundown except 
when in blossom; airing is most necessary whenever suitable. Ripe fruit 
can be had by the month of June, or earlier. Vines can be planted against 
or aside of a house wall, over which also a portable frame can be placed, 
and forced and treated as before stated. 

By a third method: vines can be planted near greenhouses to be 
moved in and out by means of a movable plank; forced and treated like 
the others or by artificial heat. After the fruit is gathered, the vines should 
be altogether freed of cover and left to free air; after the leaves drop, lay 
them down to protect them when cold weather begins; do not allow them 
to be damaged by the winter's blast. 

Dwarfish, early varieties of Southern climate are the most suitable 
to be forced. 

To Force Stone Fruit. 

Plant young trees of stone fruit, such as peaches, appr-cots, plums, 
cherries, etc., on a protected, sunny place suitable to force; when near a 
wall, it is more suitable to put a portable frame over them when the time 
to force it, is at hand. Such a frame has to be built to be high, and large 
enough for dwarfish sizes of trees, holding two rows of sashes, so that the 
upper ones can easily be moved over the lower ones to expose such trees to 
dew and rain, as well as to fall air; it has, and can be fixed, so that by 
means of a quantity of fresh horse manure and sun, trees can be forced to 
ripen fruit quite early. Fruit forcing, in a large scale, could hardly be done 
all by nature. If trees have to be forced by artificial heat, and cannot be 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 15 

exposed to suit their nature, fruit forcing won't pay. All such trees have 
to be wrapped up from the heel as far up as it can be done with a porous 
stuff like moss, which has to be kept moist as soon as forcing has begun, 
unless the bark gets so dry that it is visited by a black fly, which it will 
soon be covered with, even the trees are washed every day, and won't live 
long. 

Trees are troubled enough with bugs and other insects when planted 
on open field, or on any place out of door. As soon as the fruit is gone, 
free such tree of all its coverings. 



Seed Tasting. 

Nobody shouid sow any seed before quite sure of its vitability, because 
very sad consequences are often the cause, when damaged, old, only part 
vitable seed is sown. (Who is to be blamed for poor results?) 

Take a piece of woolen cloth on which to put a portion of light, 
porous earth, or rotten saw dust. Count a certain number of seed, 25 or 
50, which shall be sown on this stuff. Cover the seed lightly, if not too fine, 
mark the seed and number of, by name. Tie the cloth together by the 
four corners. Set it on a pan where warm, on which pan an inch sand is 
put; fill it with hot steaming water; don't forget to repeat it. Examine 
every day, until sure how many of the seed are vitable. Seed may be sown 
on a sponge put on a vessel filled partly with hot water at a warm place; 
also, on moist sand, in a cellar, which is free of mice and rats. Small pots, 
boxes may be partly filled with sand, or other earthdike stuff mixed with 
sand, on which seed is sown and set in a close, hot place, where not less 
than 70 degrees of moist heat can be raised- The best way is to depend on 
self-L r ro\vn seed. 



1 6 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Seed Growing. 

To grow seed, select the choicest plants. Vegetable plants, which 
bring ripe seed the first or same year, are annuals, or only one-year-old 
plants. Such which bring ripe seed second year, are biennuals, two-year- 
old plants. Hardy plants are perennuals, which last several years, bring, 
also, ripe seed, but only a few of them will bring ripe seed. Annuals: 
Cress, beans, lettuce, peas, cucumber, melon, squashes, pumpkins, month- 
ly radish, corn, eggplant, spinach, tomatoes, New Zealand spinach, pepper, 
mangold root, etc. Of herbs: Lavender, majoram, portulac, caraway. 

Biennuals: Carrott, cabbage, varieties beet, celery, cardoon, par- 
snip, scurceanary, sasifry, leek, endive, sugar root, turnip, rutabagos, cauli- 
flower, asparagus, kehl, (or brukely kehl) winter or black radish, etc. 
Hardy plants, as asparagus, chicory root, caraway root, rhubarb, seakehl. 

It is difficult to raise seed out of door by a wettish, cold, unfavorable 
season. Plants which are planted out in the early spring to grow seed of, 
have to be at such places where they can be protected against wet, and the 
sun's heat, re-thrown from walls, easy to ripen seed, especially, which ripens 
slow, like beet, endive, cauliflower, some cabbage varieties, leek, onion. 
Leek best had better be covered with glass soon after being in blossom. 

As said, plant out plants as early as advisable, not be damaged by 
frost, against which many can be protected, and seed, some of annuals and 
others, do grow special plants for seed, on sunny, protected, not newly 
manured, but on substantial, good soil, to suit the nature of such culture. 

Only one variety of the same family shall be sown or planted on the 
same bed to grow seed as pure as possible. Such beds shall be that far 
apart, if not some kind of a petition is put between beds that amalgation 
will be prevented by wind. Bees will do more than liked. 

Regulate the planting and sowing so to keep all free of weeds; soil 
loose and moist to grow good seed. Beans, only one kind on same bed. 
Pole beans a distance from dwarf or bush beans. Cucumber, lettuce, melon, 
radish, and so of every family only, and special variety. No matter if sown 
or planted. Care be taken to gather seed,, when enough ripe not to loose 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 17 

the first, best, before the last on same plant is ripe. Cut off a plant with 
nearly, and equally ripe seed, and put it, too, after rippened, in a dry 
place where no mice, rats, etc., get by. When fully dry, clean seed well, 
preserve in tin or glass vessels, not quite full, to give room to shake it from 
time to time, with two or more small openings on top to let seed have 
air. All seeds, when dry and well cleaned, are to be stored in a perfectly 
dry, airy room, as said, free of mice, rats, etc. Fruit and vegetable seed, 
like cucumber, tomato, etc., shall be laid aside until fermentation has 
begun, which is the time the seed are to be washed out and well dried by 
air (natural heat); all kinds of seed shall be well labeled when packed. 



PlFTH ZP^ZECT. 



Change of Culture.— Alteration, or Change of Culture to Position. 



Not only experienced gardners, but farmers, also, have found out 
years ago, that more rank than perfect crops can be raised without any 
change of position; or let the land lay idle two or more years, which can 
not be afforded by gardners. Small growers who need the ground for 
yearly cultivation, seldom are successful in cultivating same kind of crops 
on same position a second time or succeeding year as good as the crop of 
the preceding year was. 

"When, occasionally, an unfavorable season has set in, then probably 
they manure heavily to force a good crop, with poor success; a third year, 
but with no better results. This is easy the case with large, near-surface 
rooted plants, such as, artichokes, cardoon, cabbage, rhubarb, etc., such 
plants takes faster the substance out of the ground than any other like 
slender rooted 

The same time they leave a kind of stuff hehind of exodation which 
proves unfavorable to other plants. For example: an old, worn out straw- 
berry bed is cleared, dug, and best kind of manure used, replanted with 
same kind of plants, proves a failure; the plant will grow and will blossom, 



18 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

but won't bring any fruit, and die. The nature of the soil must suit the 
nature of the plant. If not regulated thus, manuring won't help much. 
The substance which is taken out of the soil by one kind of plant, the next 
following one will give it back by the change of culture, for which experience 
is needed to regulate the change of culture, to know what kind by nature 
to follow first. On such a theory, they will change part in nature, to suit 
the nature of the succeeding crop, which proved a failure the second year 
without a change to position. Proof is laid when soil and position are 
unfavorable for one kind of culture, they will prove contrary for another, 
as well as the different working of the ground is very important, and espec- 
ially by vegetable culture. 

By the theory of changing the land, it can be made best profitable, 
and is a great saving in manure; naturally, all wants a change, even fruit 
trees, where a young fruit tree is planted of some kind, where an old one 
stood, it will never do well. Where a seed fruit tree stood, plant one which 
bears stone fruit, or change the earth as far as the most, nearly all, as far as 
the root of the old one reached. Where spreading large, not deep-rooted 
plants stand, cultivate some slender, small, light-rooted ones by closely 
following this theory. The vigorous growth in vegetation when treated 
thus will prove to be needful for success. The change in cultivation is 
calculated on a time from two to three years, and calculated thus. By a 
change of the main culture, the under or between culture concerns the land, 
can be under a constant and profitable cultivation. 

First, an asparagus bed will last fifteen years, and will be changed 
with seakehl, celery, cucumber, melon or squashes, changes to artichok. 
Asparagus bed shall receive a coat of leave-mould and rotted cow manure, 
which shall be forked in early in the spring. It shall not have any under 
planting, as one row of radishes or lettuce on the edge of the bed; a sea- 
kehl bed shall also be treated the same, with manure every fall and spring, 
unless it will be prepared to be forced after the plants are three years old. 
In the spring it may receive an under crop of cress, endive, radish, etc, 
which is mostly sown on the edges of the bed. A seakehl bed will last over 
twenty years. Rhubarb bed is to be changed after an eight years 1 duration 
with celery, cucumber, melons, squashes ; in the spring manured and dug 
through the winter. The following winter lettuce seed may be sown on it. 
English spinach bed will last four or five years. It shall be dug late in the 
fall and well manured, to receive the following spring some of the same 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. t 9 

crop may be planted on it. Artichok beds shall be changed after four years' 
time, manured and dug late in the fall and planted the following spring with 
celery, cucumber, melon, peas and beans. Cardoon beds shall also be 
manured and dug through winter; in the following spring they may be cul- 
tivated with beet, parsnip or spinach. Cardoon are grown from seed every 
spring if no old roots are set out. Horse radish bed, by real cultivation, 
lasts two years, and the same bed can be re-cultivated with same of smooth- 
side root. 

Celery beds undergo a yearly change, and generally are changed 
with cucumber, melon, lettuce, spinach or cauliflower bed, the following 
spring with celery again. Cucumbers with yearly change when early, may 
be cleared and sown with winter spinach, or else be planted with earlv 
cabbage or cauliflower, beet or turnip, rooted cabbage. Scorceonary beds 
will last two years and changes after seed and roots are gathered, which will 
be the second year. It shall be manured and dug; and cultivated with 
peas, lettuce, celery; if with peas or lettuce, may receive for fall, turnip, 
spinach or winter lettuce. The following spring it may be cultivated with 
a like root crop again. 

Oyster, salsify and sugar-root bed be changed in the same manner 
as the above one, when the roots are dug in time and healed into sand. 
Carrot beds shall be seeded unmanured, and be changed with lettuce, beet, 
peas, early turnips, radish. The following spring changed and dug through 
winter. Spinach turnips, for fall crop, are to be sown with carrot seed late 
the same fall. Parsnip beds change yearly, be cultivated with beans, cu- 
cumber, melon, squashes, onions, tomatoes, unless parsnip are left until 
the following year to raise seed of, but require protection and drainage, 
unless will rot; if dug the following fall early, turnip seed be sown. 

Onion bed shall be changed and spinach or turnips may be sown for 
fall and winter; the following spring be cultivated with beans, carrots; after 
the bean crop, endive, escaroll, may be planted, and well manured the fol- 
lowing fall, and planted with early cabbage, cauliflower; after pickle 
cucumber or a late crop of beans. Onion sets or seed beds which are 
cleared in July may be cultivated with beans, late peas, cucumber, pickle, 
endive or escaroll. The following spring it may be sown with carrot, or 
dunged for cabbage, tomato, egg-plant, sweet corn or potatoes. When 
potato or early onion beds are cleared they may be planted with late cab- 
bage or winter cabbage, like Brussel sprouts and green kehls, etc. 



2o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Cabbage beds be changed through winter for early corn, potatoes, 
onions, celery, leek, tomatoes, eggplant, peas, akra, radish, lettuce. Brus- 
sels sprout and other winter cabbage beds may be cultivated with potatoes 
corn, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, squashes, pepper. Cauliflower beds may 
change to cucumber, melon, beans, peas, onion, celery. Tomatoes, egg- 
plant bed be dunged, dug and prepared for long rooted plant, as carrot, 
parsnip, salsify, scorceonary, beet, and for onion seed, garlic sets, or ruta- 
bagas, early in the fall for early spring. 

Strawberry beds will last, by good care, four or five years; require 
rich, medium, light soil at a sunny position, for early. If planted, August 
or September, covered lightly through winter, will already bear the follow- 
ing year. When planted in the spring will not bear any sooner, and have 
to be cared for a full year. Strictly avoid fresh horse manure for this 
culture. 



Manuring and Preparing Land. 

The best season to manure land is late fall; clay, heavy land be 
plowed after fall; light, loamy land should be left to the end of winter, unless 
very early crops like onion, carrot, beet, etc, will be sown. Quite rotten 
manure may be applied in early spring, when well spread. 

Heavy land, when plowed in late fall, will get loose by freezing and 
thawing, need not be so particular about the nature of manure as to be 
equally spread. The more or less plowing be done, according to the 
nature, as for root crops, carrot, mangold root, cabbage and such long 
rooted crops plow deep, and less deep like for onion and alike short, light 
rooted crops. Loamy land, when weedy, should be plowed late in the fall 
so that weed has time to rot. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE, 21 



Si2£i?:ee ZEP^irt- 



Vegetable and other Culture. 



Rich, aluvial soil is best adapted for vegetable culture; it don't 
matter so much as to position, and need not to be grown in one patch. 
Some vegetables and corn can be cultivated between rows of newly planted 
fruit trees, as well as small fruit, one row between two rows of trees. 

Vegetables do best on low, moist land, but some may be grown on 
rising positions, like corn beans, turnips, New Zealand spinach, tomatoes, 
corn, salad, pumpkins, cow peas, pepper, eggplant; tomatoes may be 
planted near pleasure ground, especially the first two ones, as ornamental 
plants, amongst shrubbery and on hardy flower beds. 

A beginner, or insufficiently experienced cultivator, will find here all 
pertaining to this culture in a practical leading way to know what kind of 
soil and position is needed to suit for this different culture. 



Long and Stump-like Rooted Vegetables. 



Carrot, Daucus Carrota. It is more a biennial than an annual, 
while good, ripe seed grows the second year of roots, which are dug in the 
fall and planted early in the spring to get seed of. The stump-rooted ones 
are of an early nature and some of them can easily be forced for quite early 
use, of which some are well known as French horn carrots. They are of a 
finer quality for table use than the long late ones, except the salfelder, a 
yellowish carrot, one which is a fine variety, of a good flavor. Other long 
varieties are best adopted for field culture, while of a courser nature. 

The altringham has proven to be the largest grown, is of a half 
purple color with a dark green head; a belgian, of whiteish, yellow color 
with a green colored head. 



22 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

All seed need to be rubbed with sand or dry earth before sown, and 
need to be sown as early in the spring as possible, if not sown late in the 
fall. The deeper the land is plowed or dug, the finer prepared of a loamy 
like nature on a low moist position, the better a crop. Sow the seed 
thin on light drills eight or nine inches apart; cover very lightly, or not at 
all when sown shortly before a good rain. When up thin out to four or five 
inches; keep them free of weed and soil loose; dig them in the fall and keep 
them frost free in pit or cellar. Seed will last vitable three or four years. 
It likes rich but not fresh manured land. It is a native of south Europe. 

Beet, beta cicla rubra. Sow seed of no other but of the very 
dark blood-red ones. This is a good kind for table use as salad, 
or sweet. Other kinds are used to manufacture sugar of and for stock. 
Sow early in one and one-half inch deep drills one inch deep. Seed, two 
inches apart, drills one foot apart, in low, rich aluvial soil; thin out to three 
or four inches; keep it free of weed and soil loose; hill slightly before 
hot, dry weather. Sow several times; gather them before cold weather; 
keep them frost free in pit or cellar. Seed will keep vitable for about six 
years, which gets ripe of choice roots planted out early against a wall on 
south side. It is a native from the south of Europe. 

Horse radish, cochlearia aromatica. Horse radish is a perennial or 
hardy plant, hard to destroy. Is general part cultivated from thin, smooth, 
six or eight inch long roots early in the spring, on about two feet wide oval 
shaped bed, heavily manured with rotten manure, deeply dug in and well 
mixed with the earth on an outside shady, wet position of a garden or field. 
Plant one foot apart in the midde of the bed with a pointed planter eighteen 
inches long; leave the top of each root one inch above ground; keep said 
clean and stirred. By the end of June hold up the leaves, clear the soil 
from around the root, cut all fibres, put the soil back, level, and water them 
with strong manure liquid; repeat the same two or three times. First and 
second year when the roots are large enough grown for use, as a valuable 
market article, it pays to cultivate it. 

Oyster root, trogopagon porifolius. Resembles, or is the white 
scorceonary root. It can be recognized by the purple violet flower which 
opens about an hour after sunrise, a. m. and closes about n a. m. while 
the flower of the black scorceonary root is yellow and open all clay. Both 
be cultivated alike and like soil and position are useable for same purpose. 
It is a biennial. Seed is sown as early in the spring as ground is workable 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 23 



in one and one-half inch deep drills, lightly covered but thinly sown. Keep 
it free of weed and ground stirred. Usable roots will grow until fall, of 
which a portion is dug for winter use; the others on beds protected, cov- 
ered, which will bring ripe seed the second year, when all shall be dug in 
the fall. This and most of such root crops like all moist, low, sandy-like 
rich soil, while natives from sea shores. Seed will remain vitable, by good 
care, four years. 

Parsly root, apium petrosilieum. This root requires no difference 
in culture and treatment to the carrot, but the seed wants more time to 
germinate. 

Black root, scorceonarie hispanira. Is by nature and culture as the 
second last is specified; the only difference found, grows larger bat loses 
by taste. 

Parsnip, pastinaka sativa. Its cultivation is the same as by the 
carrot, and treatment also. The only difference is, while the seed is larger 
it wants to be a little deeper sown or more covered. There are two varie- 
ties of; the ordinary, a long one, and a thicker, shorter one, called the sugar 
parsnip, which is sweeter and of better taste than the other. Dig all, or part, 
in the fall. Protect either from freezing. It is also a biennial; brings ripe 
seed the second year, which is gathered of the choicest roots planted in the 
spring, or of best remaining on the bed, and will remain vitable two to 
three years. It is also a native of seashore of south of Germany. 

Chervel root, chacrophillum scandix bulbosum. This root is little 
known yet, and seldom seen at a market. The seed is sown in the tall in 
shallow (rows) lines one fooc apart, little covered, but covered lightly with 
litter through winter. Keep the plants free of weed, and ground stirred. 
The top will be dry by July, from which time endive or turnip canbegrown 
between rows when cleared. Dig roots in the fall for winter use, which 
are of a screw shape, and taste like sweet almond. The undug ones don t 
suffer any by frost, and increase in size and by taste. Any light garden 
soil will do for this crop. This, a biennial, rippens seed easy the second 
year, and remains vitable for several years. 

Sugar root, sium, sisarum. It is a perennial or hardy plant, as it is 
scarce in the market it is little known. If cultivated, 'observe the cultiva- 
tion of the same above. The seed lies from fall until spring before it ger- 
minates. Frost will never damage it. Culture and treatment don't differ 



24 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

much to horse radish. The roots grow in bundles, four to six, and are 
usable the following fall. 

Golddistel root, scotimus hispanicus. This is also a biennial. Its 
culture, habit and treatment are the same of the scorceonary root, and is a 
native of same country, and serves for same use. 

Monthly radishes, Raphanus sativus radicula. Is an annual; rippens 
seed the first year; is cultivated nearly all year round. When the temper- 
ature gets too low to grow them outside, some turnip-shaped varieties can 
easily be forced, of which there are many different kinds and do varigate, 
irom white to nearly black, of which color the Spanish winter radish is. 
When seed is sown on medium good, mellowy garden soil, brings good 
crops, as long as moist and cool air lasts; heat and dryness produces rank, 
spongy growth; about 50 degrees suits their growth. The long rooted ones 
need deeper loosened soil. This is a native of China and Japan, seed will 
remain vitable five or six years. 

Raphanns sativus linn is mostly of a black color and turnip-shaped. 
It is sown late, to grow when the air and ground are cool and moist. They 
are cultivated in gardens and fields where they grow to good size in sub- 
stantial soil, needs to be about six inches apart, are treated turnip-like. 
Gathered before frosty weather begins, and be kept frostfree in pit or cellar. 
Seed will be vitable for seven years. 

The springers, a small, quick-moving insect of dark-bluish color, is 
troublesome to crops of yonng radish-turnips, rutabagas, cress; cabbage- 
varieties, when not kept moist and shady. 



Rutabagas, Brassica Napus. Rapifera (Oleracea). 



This is also known or called Sweedish turnip. Fewer are cultivated 
in gardens than on fields. It is a biennial, rippens the second year of 
roots planted out the following spring. The seed is sown in spring, on a 
moist, shady bed, and kept moist until plants are grown strong enough to 
be planted out when land is prepared for. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 25 

Land should be of a substantial, mellowy nature, about six inches 
deep plowed, to be loose easily to plant in rows about thirty inches 
apart, and kept moist until grown to a size that springers have no effect on 
them. Seed will be vitable in five or six years. 

Turnip-rooted cabbage, brassica oleracea rapa. Kohlrabi. It is a 
biennial; ripens seed the second year. The seed of this for early crops 
to grow has to be sown into a hotbed and plants raised to plant out. It 
hardly pays to force any of them while they need so much space and 
don't bring a good market price. There are two or three varieties of them, 
but the two purple kinds are best. They want to be grown fast, for which 
moist, cool weather, or moisture and shade is needed, or else they will, by 
slow growth, be almost too hard to be usable, but cultivated from spring 
to fall. Seed will remain vitable for about five years. 

Turnip, Brassica rapa ratifera. It is a biennial; also brings ripe 
seed the second year. Of planted out roots in the spring only early varie- 
ties are sown in lines about eight inches apart and very thin, and be thin- 
ned out to five or six inches. 

Large crops are cultivated on field; for which crop, early and late 
sowing shall be done, while turnip don't do well when hot dry weather, but 
cool and moist. The Montmagny yellow, yellow Aberdeen, yellow Scotch, 
golden stone, golden ball, purple top, strap leaved. Seed will last vitable six 
years. 

Vegetables of usable leaves, as cabbage varieties, of loose leaved and 
of headed varieties, brassica alerecea acephalaare loosely headed ones, grown 
for late winter and spring use, and suffer little when grown where the sun 
don't strike it much, in winter or when frozen, by little protection: called 
greenkehl. It is a biennial; ripens seed the second year. 

Brassica alerecea sabellica, winter brown kehl. Seed is sown of this 
variety about middle of spring to raise plants on warm out-of-door beds 
about in middle of the summer, just to grow the plants strong enough to 
stand the winter. It is a biennial also. 

Brussels sprouts B. Ol: fruiticosa, Brussels kehl or sprouts. The 
seed is sown the same time of the previous ones, treated, cultivated alike. 
It is a biennial, also. 

Savoyer kehl, B. Oi: capitaka bulata. Half-headed cabbage, of 



26 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

which are a few varieties, small round and cone-shaped heads, of a dark 
green and part yellowish color when ripe. This is also a biennial. Cul- 
ture and treatment of same time as those of previous ones. If any being 
dug in the fall and sheltered, the best, healthiest and strongest are planted 
out with theheads on them to raise seed of them, as well as of the healthies 
which were kept outside. 

Head cabbage, B. 01: capitata Isevisa. Cabbage, as a very noted 
commercial article the whole year round, is extensively grown in garden and 
field from seed of the earliest to the latest variety, of which a great number 
is known. Of the early ones, in the fall seed is sown and plants raised; set 
thinly in a half cold hotbed where it is well protected against cold winds 
and the sun be kept off by shading: it. These plants are to be kept by good 
care and be hardened to plant them out in the very early spring, of which 
are different early kinds, known as early dwarf york, early ox-hart, early 
Mackfield, early Wyman and Athens. 

The next early for late spring and summer crop are early winning- 
state, cone-shaped kind and stands the heat well. Early sugar-loaf (cone 
shaped), early fiat Dutch, early drumhead, of which seed is sown into hot- 
beds to grow plants to plant when the coldest weather is over. Seed for 
general and late crop is sown of outdoor on a suitable bed to grow strong 
plants of, which are planted about three or four weeks different to time the 
earliest crop is gone. Medium heavy, substantial, loose garden and sod 
earth is best to raise healthy, strong, straight plants, dug moist with earth 
to the root when planted, on deep dug, loosely worked, well manured, or 
rich land, at from thirty inches to three feet apart, in drills two and a half 
inches deep, before a good shower of rain or then well watered down with 
soft water. This crop shall be worked, the ground stirred until heads have 
begun to form, then hilled and kept free of insects. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



There are a Number of Well Known Late and Winter Cabbage. 



Late Drumbheads, Fothlers, Branswick drumbheads, Centreheads, 
Mammoth Marbleheads, Premium, Large Flat Dutch, as late varieties, 
besides the Red, or Purple, cabbage. Cabbage is easily damaged by cold 
while of a watery nature. 

Spinach, Spinacia, Olerecea. Of which two varieties are known: 
One, of brickley seed, which only does for winter use, sown in August or 
September, toward fall, mostly broadcast, and thinned out to three or four 
inches; it is a hardier one than the one of round seed, which grows a larger, 
more roundish leaf, which is more tender than the other. If sown towards 
fall, needs more space and keeps better coveted with straw throughout 
winter than the first. It is an annual, brings seed the same year. Is an 
Oriental. 

New Zealand spinach, Tetragonia, Expansa. While the seed of this 
spinach germinates slow, plants to plant on open ground should be raised 
of, in a hotbed. Plants should be planted about three feet apart; it grows 
branching, which should be pinched or cut back to keep in shape and 
grow larger leaves, which are used in place of the other spinach, which is 
of a cooling nature, and don't suffer any by the hot sun, it is of a fat, 
suculent nature. The one kind of is of a green, grayish white color, while 
a second is of a purple one. 

The seed will be vitable for three or four years, is a native of New 
Zealand, South Sea Islands and Japan. It likes rich, sandy, loamy soil, 
moist position. 



2 8 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Tea, or Cristal Plant, Messembryanthmum, Cristaliaum. 



This plant is of a like nature of the previous one, of same culture, 
same kind of soil, and serves for same use. Oariniates, from Greek and 
Cape of Good Hope; both are perennials where they Orient from. 



Sugar Melbe, Artiplex Hortensis. 



It is a native of America. It grows about three feet high, with 
roundish, spinach-like leaves, of whiteish green color, and serves for 
the use of spinash. When cultivated on rich, loamy soil, moist position, 
six or eight inches apart, brings a good crop, and don't suffer so soon of 
heat. It is an annual almost everywhere known. 



English Spinach, Rumex Potientica. 



This is a perennial, or hardy plant, and is a native of South America. 
Its seed is sown from spring to fall, produces sour, aromatic-like, long 
leaves, which are usable as greens, like spinach. The same bed will last, 
by some care, three to four years. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 29 



Vegetables with Usable Ribs, Sprouts; Rheum, Undulatun, 

Rhebarb. 



Its ribs are usable as long as they are tender; which are seen often 
times long before spring and been forced in a pit with sashes on and a 
heavy rim of fresh horse manure around it, or in a barrel, without heads, 
set over a plant with the same material forced, when roots are set under 
bandies of a greenhouse, rhubarb can easily be forced, or in a pit. 

It is a hardy, or perennial plant, of which are two varieties known 
grown from seed sown in a hotbed, when stought enough planted three to 
four feet apart in rich soil. It is generally part cultivated from roots of 
old plants. Is generally oat of vegetation from middle of summer until the 
following spring, it needs heavy manuring (mulched), protected by cover- 
ing through winter. 

The Victoria, which produces strong, reddish ribs is in preference 
to the other or Rheum linn. Seed keeps vitable four years. The Victoria, 
or Rhebarb undulatum, is a native of China and Sibaria; Rhebarb ribes 
linn is a native of Syrian and Persian. 

Mangold, Beta, ciclee, is a perennial, or hardy plant. In a mod- 
erate climate, it will keep out on the bed undamaged, when protected by a 
cover. The one known as a usable one called Swiss chard, is culti- 
vated mainly for greens, in place of spinach. The richer the soil is the 
heavier the crop will be. 

For early crops, the seed should be sown in a hotbed to grow plants 
to plant out after frosty weather in drills fifteen inches apart and about nine 
inches in the row; or seed sown in such drills one inch deep and thinned 
out to nine inches. The seed should be covered some with fresh horse 
manure. It don't suffer much by heat when the roots are kept moist with 
water or liquid; it grows from spring into fall. The outside leaves be 
broken off, used for vegetable or stock feed; the whole plant can be con- 
verted into some use; the remainder late in the fall is dug up and planted 



3 o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

slanting into sandy earth in cellar or pit, which will produce a good veget- 
able through winter. It is a native of Switzerland and Germany. 

A second kind of dwarfish, weaker growth, when sown thick in drills, 
can be cut off for greens; it is a Romeish variety. 

A third kind is the Brazilian, or Parrot kind, one of the most beauti- 
ful leaf plant, it is of very rich color: red, yellow, whiteish and green, which 
shows very fine for an ornamental plant.. 



Cardoon. Carduns, Cinara. or Cardunculus sinara. 



It resembles the artichok; its ribs are useable after having fairly 
bleached are tender. The head or top, after blossoming, when the seed 
is still milky, serves for some use as the seed top of the artichok. 

The seed are sown in hotbeds, of which plants are raised to plant 
out on rich garden soil three feet apart, be kept like other crop, at the 
latter part of the season; the whole plant is loosely tied together. 

By the beginning of cold weather, dug (layed) burried in sand, saw- 
dust or under fresh strawy horse manure to bleach. By using off, clean off 
the outer skin-like on rhubarb; cut to two-inch pieces and boiled in 
straight fresh milk. 

The root may live until spring when planted out to produce seed. 
It is a native of North Africa, Spain and Greece. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 31 



Cauliflower, Brassica Oleracea, Botritis Cauliflara. 



If the top of cauliflower should grow too long and loose, not forming 
a solid cheese, these ribs can be used before getting hard, be boiled in milk 
and prepared for the table like caulflower cheese. Cauliflower seed is 
sown, plants raised before winter, treated like earliest cabbage plants to 
plant them early into hotbeds to force it, and outdoors as soon as advisa- 
ble about cold. In high, double frames about twenty inches apart, for 
which the earliest and most dwarfish is used. Rich, sod earth, mixed with 
sandy compost, suits their nature; manure liquid be also used to force them 
by about 60 degrees. Shade the cheeses before they spoil in growing too 
loose, and discolor. Guard against the same on out door crop. The 
largest cheeses grow in the fall by moist, coolish weather, which crop needs 
nine to twelve weeks time. The same result may be in spring when cool, 
moist weather. 

For early crop sow seed of the early erfurter, early cipryen. For 
late, late English. It is a biennial; difficult to grow good seed of, except 
under glass. Good seed will remain vitable for about five years. 

Italian sprouts kehl is part in like nature of the cauliflower, only 
grows cheeses in quite moderate climate, where it can remain out door, 
where it has plenty of time to grow to perfection. Its nature effords the 
same culture and treatment and serves for same use as the cauliflower, but 
far more time is needed to grow it. 



Asparagus, Asparagus Affisinalis. 



This Dlant is a perannial, grown from seed in a hotbed, and shall, 
under protection, remain so until two years old, when they shall be planted 
on a well prepared bed for. 



3 2 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Begin to dig ditches on a sunny, open lot, fifteen inches wide by 
thirty inches deep; lay the earth on the outside of the bed where beginning. 
The second line for second ditch shall be two feet of the middle of the first, 
that each row of asparagus will be thirty inches apart; don't lay the earth in 
your way by digging the inside ditches. Fill the bottom part of ditch with 
bones, horns, rotten wood, combine with rotten manure on it until full, half 
solid to six inches to top; mark the line with sticks eighteen inches apart 
and fill; level to top with leave mould, and set by each stick a plant with 
undamaged roots straightened out, and cover it with hotbed earth, or of some 
alike; divide and lay the dug out earth alongside of the planted row. Cover 
these roots well with leave mould and manure through winter. The manure 
with the plants will sink somewhat, but the ditch will be gradually re- 
filled by hoeing. Cover the plants again like first every year. The third 
spring dig all manure under, what will nearly level the bed, and so continue. 
Cut all remaining dry top of six inches of the ground and let it be spread; 
lay until spring until (forking) digging will be done. Every years growth 
grows on top of the roots, and gets exposed too soon, if planted another 
way, and could not bring the expected crop if spring would' be dry. 

It is so much spread to be a native almost everywhere. There are 
two varieties; one grows a green, slender, tender sprout, while the other is 
shorter, thicker, less tender and whiteish. 



Seakehl. Crambe Maritima. 



Which shouid be more cultivated to be found at the market. English 
people favor it, while it has proven to be an excellent early vegetable. Seed 
of this plant should be sown two by two seed together crosswise, two and 
one-half feet apart in rich, sandy loam on a sunny position. Even it is a 
hardy plant. It shall be protected with a cover through winter; manured 
every year. Seed keeps vitable three or four years. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Celery, Apium, Cravelens. 



This is a biennial, ripens seed the second year on roots, which will 
be planted out in the spring. While celery seed germinates very slowly, 
seed needs to be sown into a hotbed to grow plants of, of an early kind for 
an early crop. For general crop, seed may be sown out of door early, and 
kept moist and free of weed until plants are strong enough grown to plant 
out. 

There are some varieties known: The Boston market, while dwarfish, 
is first grown. Sandringham's dwarf is somewhat a purplish colored one. 
The white solid is for general crop and grows tallest. It might be planted 
on old lettuce beds, and potatoes. Planted in rows three feet, six inches 
apart, in double rows on not newly dunged beds, but on rich, loose, sandy- 
like soil. This space gives plenty room to hill them to the top; left cov- 
ered out into winter. If room enough in pit and cellar to heal and cover 
it up with sand, sawdust. Less space is required to grow them on. Plant it 
in single or double rows, keep the crop steady, clean and moist. 

Turnip-rooted celery, celriae. Shall be sown when the general crop 
at the above is sown, on same soil and position. The plants be planted in 
drills two feet apart and about two inches in the row. By a second hoeing 
clear the earth away from the roots and cut all fibres of the main root; re- 
place the earth and apply liquid of manure; hill them some in late summer; 
tie the top together before digging them up, before cold weather begins. 
Heal them in and cover them the same as other celery. To bleach the top, 
to use like the other, and the roots will be ready for market, which is a 
good commercial article. It is a native of southern Europe. It is a 
biennial; ripens seed the second year of roots planted out early in the 
following spring, south against a wall. 



34 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Vegetables Usable for Salad. 



LETTUCE, LACTUCA SATIVA. 



It is an annual. Ripens good seed the same season, except winter 
lettuce, of which the seed is generally sown the fall before. Lettuce grows 
well in and out door, by 50 to 60 degrees of heat. Seed of the celerian, a 
curly variety, is also sown into hotbeds with the beginning of winter to be 
forced. 

Other crops are sown later, to force it to have a good crop of well- 
grown heads in about two months. The egg and stoneheads are prevara- 
ble kinds to force. The yellow brownish and green brown colored prins- 
head, cabbage head are grown in hot beds to plant out door for early crop; 
also, Denis tall, Boston market. For the very first crops seed of best 
winter varieties are sown in early fall in a shady, protected position; in 
winter on a bed over which a hotbed frame can be put to protect plants by 
a cover. It succeeds best in rich, light, loose soil. Seed will remain 
vitable four to six years. 



Endevien Chicorium Endevia. 



It is a half-biennial; when seed is sown early on a sunny position, it 
will ripen seed the first season, otherwise of plants kept over winter be set 
out in the following spring to get seed from. Crops grow well on any good 
garden soil. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 35 

There are three well-known kinds which are mostly cultivated for 
fall and winter use for salad: One, green and yellow curled, is best known 
and liked; one, yellow leaved, a little larger, which is often sown on edges 
of beds, which serves and shows a pretty border, when thickly sown serves 
as greens when cut off. Both varieties grow flat and needs to be tied to- 
gether by the point when dry, before frosty weather dug and preserved in a 
half-dry place for use. 

A third kind is a broad-leaved one, called escaroll, is cultivated and 
treated alike for the very same use. This culture needs about ten weeks' 
time to grow to perfection by suitable weather; most is bleached indoor 
when tied together, and are of a bitterish-like taste. It is a native of 
Batavia. 



Cichory Root, Chicorium Lintybus. 



This plant is merely cultivated for the use of its root; to manufacture 
it for the use to mix it with coffee. The leaves are also usable for greens, 
or salad, but are of a more bitter taste. Their native place is the Orient. 
Seed of will remain vitable seven to eight years. 



Corn Salad, Plantago Coronapa. 



Is an annual of very dwarf growth. Is sown before fall anywhere on 
light soil. To be«used as salad in early spring. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Watercress, Nasturdium afficinalis. 



It is a perennial. Grows along water of running springs. If culti- 
vated, it must be cultivated from root of same on such places of slow run- 
ning spring water, where found to suit its nature. It is used as salad in the 
winter season. 



Bivernelle, Poterium Sanguisorbea. 



It is a perennial. Its leaves are used to decorate dishes with, a 
mixture of its flowers, malva crispa, and barago afficinalis, also mixed with 
lettuce, cucumber, red cabbage, for a good taste and appearance. 



Fruit Vegetable. 



BEANS, PHASOLUS VULGARIS. 



It is an annual; of two principle kinds, dwarf and pale beans. Seed 
ripens of the same season. Rich, light loam or substantial loose soil suits 
their nature, in which they produce good crops. Pole, or running beans, 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 37 

shall be planted three feet apart in rows in a circle, in which six beans are 
planted one and one-half inches deep, and a good pole of about eight feet 
long planted in the middle of; the tops of two to four poles may be 
tied together to withstand a strong wind better than a single one. Shall be 
kept free from weed, and somewhat hilled. Avoid to do anything at them 
while wet. They like a sunny, open position, but not cultivated on newly 
manured land. Shall only be planted after the frosty season. There are 
a few kinds of running or pole beans; stringless, yellow podded kinds are 
in preference, like the yellow podded princess, giant green wax, with red 
seed, Dutch caseknife, golden butter, southern prolific, horticultural, small 
and large Lima. 

Dwarf, or bush beans, be cultivated on a same nature of soil and 
position in drills about two feet apart, one and one-half inches deep, the 
seed about one inch apart; the crop kept clean, soil loose and hilled when 
nearly full-grown. Early varieties are preferred with stringless, yellow 
pods, like the German black wax, early ivory pod wax, golden wax, crystal 
wax, early refugee, is a good podded one. 



English Windsor Bean, Vicia Faba. 



Also annuals, of which are a few kinds. The green Windsor varieties 
are in preference for table use. The bean is of a brown, grayish color, flat 
like the large Lima. It brings good crops when planted early, in good, 
loose, medium heavy land. When cultivated in a hot climate it gets 
troubled by a black fly or bug, by which the crop is ruined. The seed shall 
be planted two inches apart in drills of eighteen inches apart, two inches 
deep. It grows from two to four feet high, stout, straight. The bean is 
used while green. Besides this for table use, is a scarlet blossoming one of 
speckled seed, and one of black seed of long roundish shape, called com- 
monly "horse mule" bean, adapted for field culture. The seed will remain 
yitable for six to seven years. 



38 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Corn, Sweet Corn. 



Is an annual. Gets ripe the same season; it is mostly cultivated to 
be used while green, in small patches except for market use. Two to three 
seed planted three feet apart each way. The richer the soil is the better it 
produces. It likes a moist position, but avoid to plant it on wet land. It 
shall be keps free from weed, the ground stirred and hilled when about two 
feet high. No old seed is sown of early sweet. 



Peas. Pisum Sativum. 



Is also an annual. It ripens its seed the same season unless seed is 
sown late in the fall for earliest crop. Medium light, rich, mellowy soil is 
best to produce a crop of dwarf kinds, of which are several known. Spring 
planting is done as early as ground is workable. Seed of dwarfish ones be 
thinly sown in drills two feet apart, and one and one -half inch deep. Kent, 
little gem, Tom Thumb, blue imperial, are dwarfish ones and early; also, 
LondreVs extra early and others. 

Others which vine and need to keep up by brushes are Carter's first 
crop, Daniel O'Rouke, blue imperial, royal marrow, champion of England. 
They shall be planted in drills two and two rows with a space of three feet 
between to work and pick the crop. This crop shall be sown a little while 
later than the earliest one, which may be repeated ten days later. The 
brushes shall be so put that the tops join together. Fresh seed should be 
sown every year. For seed gather the earliest in largest sized pods. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 39 

Asparagus pea, lotus tetragonlalaus. Is cultivated to ornament 
trellises and such other places, besides, is a delicate, sweet one to be used 
with the pods, and be cultivated same as the previous mentioned, which 
has to be kept from the ground by brushes. 



Cucumbers, Cucumis Sativus. 



It is an annual. The choicest ripe ones are laid aside for seed, which 
is washed out as soon as the cucumber has begun to ferment and the seed 
is loose from the pulp. Cucumbers can be obtained through forcing, when 
unfavorable weather for outdoor culture, which time is from spring until 
fall. Have to grow young plants to plant out in the spring. See in the 
second part to force cucumbers, which is done like the forcing of melons. 

While it is difficult to force cucumbers without the sun's heat, it has 
to be done by great care. Lay the hotbed with a layer of shavings, on 
which fresh horse manure, one-fourth of the heating material, two and one- 
half parts of fresh boiled hops mixed with the balance of dry oak leaves; 
before the earth bed is put sow half a bushel fresh air slaked lime in a frame 
of four sashes, which will keep worms and insects off. The earth bed shall 
contain three parts of fresh, rich, sandy-like, loamy garden earth and mixed 
with compost; the thickness of the bed shall be seven inches of screened, 
unfrozen, half-dry earth. Plant under each sash on an oval, two plants and 
nearby a few seed after the heat proves to be not less than sixty degrees 
on the whole bed. If less, heat can be produced of a heavy rim of fresh 
horse manure laid around the frame. If over seventy-five degrees, let it 
escape by lifting sashes, otherwise keep the bed close and shaded by sun- 
shine. Keep general heat of seventy-five degrees. Cut some plants off 



40 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

above the third leaf; over-water the vines every morning shortly or about 
one hour after sunrise. Water the root by means of a five-inch pot sunk to 
the rim three inches from the root, or without only around it. Be careful 
to keep fresh horse manure and steam off from the plants as it is a risk that 
plants will be damaged by the red spider that hores manure effects. For 
outdoor crop plant plants and seed in a drill of one and one-half inches 
deep, over the middle of a slightly oval formed, loosely dug bed of rich, 
loamy soil. This bed shall not be larger than to ridge from each side to 
the middle, not to hinder the roots from growing by treading on the bed. 
Cucumbers, from the earliest to the latest, may be cultivated on such abed. 
Don't water when hot sunshine, but keep it under steady moisture. Keep 
the main root sound by a half cover or hilled. 



Melon, Cucumis Melo. 



Of which are four standard varieties, net, musk, cantelope and water 
melon. All of these can be successfully cultivated or grown outdoor if done 
on the same method as cucumbers. The only difference is that the three 
first kinds be treated in trimming as specified by forcing. Underlay the 
melon with slate, toil, shingles. The seed of melon and cucumber will 
remain vitable until ten years, and are annuals. 



Eggplant, Solanum Melangena. 



This is also an annual. The seed of this kind of plant must be sown 
early in a hotbed, which produces a heat of seventy-five to eighty degrees 
and young plants kept, almost by close heat until somewhat strong, grown 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



4i 



to plant them out of door on rich, medium light, loose, well worked land, 
on a good, sunny position. Some are left to fruit in hotbeds. The fruit of 
this plant is like egg, and pear shaped, of violet, white and violet color. It 
is a native of Asia. The seed keeps vitable many years. 



Tomatoes, Lycopersicium Esculenfum. 



This is an annual. Ripens seed the same season; is pulpy in the 
fruit and wants to be treated same as by cucumber. 

The seed of this beautiful, healthful fruit need to be sown in a hotbed 
or else early on a very sunny spot where protected and kept steady med- 
ium moist. The soil may be like hotbed earth. The plants be planted out 
soon after frost-free weather four to six feet apart on heavily manured land, 
(cow manure is best) if possible by moist or wet weather, unless the plants 
must be well watered. To effect earlier ripe fruit than general trim plants 
above fourth eye, either at the plant itself or the vines. Cover the ground 
with fresh mown grass between the plants after the land is clear of weed 
and the plants fairly hilled. It is a native of South America. Its seed 
remains vitable several years. 

There are several varieties, of which few are found large, solid and 
of smooth growth. I not_dare to name any, while the genuine kinds are 
best through amalgamation by carelessness and rank growth. 



42 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Squashes, Cucurbita Pepo. 



It is an annual. It brings good crops on soil of same nature and 
same worked up as for melon, cucumber and seed planted on hills six feet 
apart, about same time when melon and cucumber seed is laid. There are 
several kinds of them, and are called: Vegetable Marrow, Boston Marrow, 
of greenish colur, of ribbed-like unsmooth surface. Butman's, a long- 
shaped yellow colored one of good flavor. Hubbard squash, of about the 
same color as the first, still rougher on the surface, somewhat crooked near 
the stem; marblehead is a crooked-necked one of a long shape, yellow 
colored. Other varieties are cultivated for winter use, like turban kinds 
as winter crooked neck, greenish colored, while roundish flat scolloped 
and Chilian mammoth grows to a weight of 200 pounds, and some others, 
called pumpkins, of orange and greenish color melon shaped. The last 
mentioned are the curcurbita melopepa linn. A few other kinds are culti- 
vated which are not fit to use. 



Pepper, Capsicum Annum. 



It is also an annual; brings ripe seed the same season. It is a native 
of Brazil and Mexico. The seed looks like tomato and eggplant seed. It 
is often grown up of seed to plant out of on open ground with the eggplants. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 43 

It shows well as an ornamental plant with its red colored fruit. It is not 
particular about soil but likes a sunny position. Five kinds are well known: 
the early large unegal formed, a long red, long yellow, red cherry like, a 
tomato shaped or green mountain. All are of a hot, peppery nature. 



Artichok, Carduus Cinara. 



The head or top which brings seed can be taken as a fruit when cut 
off while the seed is milky, preferred for use like asparagus. It is a hardy 
plant and cultivated for the above stated use. The plants are grown from 
seed sown in a hotbed {p grow plants to plant out, crosswise, three and a 
half to four feet apart in rich, substantial soil on a medium dry and sunny 
position. Kept like other crops and protected through winter, or dug and 
healed into sand in a cellar, and planted out in spring. It is a thistle like 
plant from Spain and north Africa. 



Bulbus Vegetables, Onion. 



Allium cepa is a biennial of the allium family, of which yearly crops 
are cultivated, not only in gardens, but large crops are cultivated on fields. 
In climate where the ground can be worked early, crops are grown from 
•seed as well as of sets. It likes rich, light soil smoothly prepared, the seed 
sown or laid quite thinly in light drills eight inches apart, seed lightly cov- 



44 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

ered. It don't like previously manured ground. This crop has to be kept 
clean, ground stirred. When the top begins to get yellow lay it all down 
with the back of a rack; gather them when the top is fully dry and preserve 
it frost-free. The young bulbs should be three inches apart, no matter of sets 
or seed. Seed of the same is sown thickly broadcast for sets, or better, in 
light drills three inches apart, thinly covered and rolled by same means. 
It is easier to keep them clean when in rows and taken up whenever the 
tops are fully dry, and preserved for next planting. Seeds and sets should 
be rolled with a hand roller. Sets need to be kept on a frost-free, dry 
place. 

Winter onion (potato onion) is a biennial. Allium fistulasum multi- 
pliers. This kind is planted out in late fall in rows eight inches apart and 
covered with litter (straw.) This onion is the first crop in the spring. 
This onion grows of one, which splits apart and be planted five inches 
apart; it is most of good size; it will grow so that eight or ten parts are 
made of, and grows to be ripe when the ground begins to be warm, when 
taken up, divided and re-planted in the fall. 

Schalate onion, allium ascalonicum. It is more a perennial than a 
biennial; it shall be transplanted every second or third year. The top gets 
dry by middle of summer. It shall be dug before fall, divided, one by one, 
replanted on a new bed three to four inches apart in the row, the rows eight 
inches apart. The onion is of a mild taste, and a native of Russia and 
Denmark. Seldom will blossom to ripen seed. 

Cut onion, allium schenoparsum. The top of this onion is used 
sreen in various ways. It is of a dwarfish growth and planted on edges of 
beds as a border. The top is dry by middle summer and is generally 
transplanted before fall. It seldom brings any seed, and is a native from 
Germany, Switzerland. 

Garlic, allium sativum. Is an annual. It grows and brings its seed 
or sets in a bunch on top of the stem. It is of a white color. 

These four varieties of onions require rich, light soil and do well in 
half shady positions. It is a native of southern Europe. 

Leek, allium parrum. Is a biennial. Ripens seed on the root the 
second year, of which being left out through winter, and of such which has 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 45 

been dug and healed in cellar or pit, planted out the following spring. Hard 
to raise seed of if not planted south of a wall or under glass. 

To raise plants of seed in hotbed only need medium light soil, but 
be planted in rich soil in rows fifteen inches apart and six inches in the 
row, hoed' and slightly hilled; manure liquid helps to grow them stout. 
When somewhat protected (covered) they keep outdoor through winter; if 
not in a moderate climate it is best to be dug and put into cellar or pit. 

Pearl leek is grown is almost an unobserved variety of leek. It is of 
a whitish green color when freed of the dry top and replanted. It grows 
silvery-like small onion, which are the most delicate of all used with salt. 

Probascidea martinia. Annual; ripens seed same year; soAvn in 
drills on side place. It is used for pickling only while green and tender. 



Plants Which are Grown for Manufacturing Purposes to Use 
Mixed With Coffee or Chicory, Which are 



Spanish tragrant, astragalus lacticus, Circer pea, Circer arienticum 
or Earth pea; Cichory root, cichoryom intibus; Mangold root, beta vul- 
garis; Carrot root, daucus carata; Cow pea, lupinus leutinus; Lupinus 
albus; Lupinus angustifolius; Lupinus lintefalius; Parsnip, pastinaca sativa. 



46 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Aromatic Herbs for Medical and Other Use. 



Some are annuals, which are yearly grown of seed. Biennials and 
perennials, or hardy plants, which are also part cultivated of seed and 
roots. 

ANTHEUM GRAVEOLENCE. Dill, annual, native of the Orient, 
grows in light soil, cultivates itself, part by dropping seed. It is aromatic. 

ANTHEUM F/ENICOLUN. Finkel, It is a perennial, a native of 
Orient, likes good soil, sunny position, cultivates itself, by dropping seed, 
needs winter protection; this is an aromatical plant, especially for the use 
of the seed. 

ARTHEMESIA ABSINTUM. Byfess, native of south Europe, is 
a perennial but better treated in general as a biennial; re-cultivated of seed 
on sunny position; it is an aromatical plant. 

ARTHEMESIA DRACUNCULUS. Esdragon; it is a native of 
Siberia, a perennial, likes good soil, sunny position, and can be part culti- 
vated every three years from roots. 

ARTHEMESIA VULGARIS. Beyweiss, native of south Germany, 
perennial, will grow in any garden soil, is aromatic. 

ANGELICA ARANGELICA. Angelroot, native of Europe, a per- 
ennial, is sweetish, usable as a vegetable, and is distilled for liquor; wants 
cover in winter, be transplanted every two years, and also cultivated of 
seed as soon as ripe, on substantial soil, sunny position. 

ANGELICA HIRSUTA. Angelroot, native of south Florida, 
America; it contains an acid resinus taste. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 47 



APIUM PETROSILICUM. Parsley, native of Asia, Europe, is 
biennial and aromatic ; it is mostly used while green; the most curled is 
most liked while most showy. 

CARUM CARVL Kimmel, native of Europe; it is a biennial, seed 
is sown at the place of substantial soil, early in the spring; seed ripens till 
middle summer; only seed is for use, and strong aromatic. 

CARIANCBEUM LATIVUM. Cariander, is a native of Asia, an 
annual, seed is sown in hotbed to raise plants to set out; the seed is strong 
aromatic, it likes a sunny position and middle-heavy, rich soil. 

CHENOPODIUM ANBROSIOIDES. It is a native of Africa and 
Central America, of which are several species of a hardy nature. Any kind 
of good and light soil will suit its nature. 

CENTAUREA BENEDICTA. Is a native of Asia, half biennial, 
of grayish green color and bitter taste. Likes same soil and position ot 
the previous one. 

COCHLERIANA OFFICINALIS. Is a native of southern and 
central Europe; is a half biennial. The seed used is of a bitter taste. 

LEPEDIUM SATIVUM AND LATIFOLIUM. Winter cress, 
native of the south seashore; likes moist position, light soil; is aromatic, 
used mixed with lettuce. Sativum is sown several times a year. It don't 
last long by warm weather; is more a spring cress, of same variety, curled, 
and uncurled. 

ORIGANUM MARJORANOIDES. Marjolin, native of north and 
central Europe; half biennial. It is generally sown every year in a hotbed 
and plants raised to set out. It is known as a good and aromatic plant. 
There are several kinds of origanums, annuals and perennials. 

LAVENDULA SPICA. Lavendula, is a native of southern Europe. 
Also, a good aromatic one, and half biennial; also, is cultivated for an or- 
namental plant, and is a native of Italy and Spain. It is of a bitter taste. 

MENTHxA CRISPA. Minth, is a native of Europe, and strong 
aromatic. A perennial; can easily be part cultivated of roots. There are 
a few kinds of which are called curled or crouse minth. It likes light soil. 

MENTHA PEPPERITA. Peppermint, it is a native of England, 
•Europe, America. Is a perennial, and is part cultivated from seed, roots 
and cuttings; is strong aromatic. The peppermint lozenges are made of. 



48 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

MELISSA OFFICINALIS. Balsam, it is a native of Europe and 
western Asia; is also a perennial and part cultivated by dividing root and 
plant early in the spring or early fall. The flowers are used dry for tea as 
a medical refreshing beverage; one blossoms red and the other yellowish 
pink. It is well worth to cultivate it, if only as an ornamental plant. It 
wants rich, light soil. 

OCRA COMBO. The seed of is sown in drills fifteen inches apart, 
and the seed two inches apart in the row, one and one-half inch deep; 
grows four to seven feet high. The young pod is used with the seed for 
soup, pickles. 

OXALIS ACETOSELLA. Sour clover, native of Europe. Oxalis 
esculenta and tetraphilla are natives of Mexico. They are perennials; 
grow on moist, half shady positions. If the knotty root of the esculenta is 
planted in spring in rich, light soil, it grows until late fall a good usable 
crop, but won't bear the slightest frost when dug. 

SATURIJA HORTENSIS. (saturibeankrout.) A south European. 
Is an annual; sown early in the spring at the place it shall grow. It is ot 
a slight aromatic taste. Grows in any garden soil. 

SCANDIX SEREFOLIA. Kerbel, native of south Europe; annual. 
Likes a half shady place, light, good soil. It is a strong aromatic herb. 

SCANDIX ALBA. White mustard, is a native of south Europe, 
Spain. Grows well on good, light land. 

SCANDIX NIGRA. Black mustard, cultivated for the manu- 
facture of mustard. It is sown early in the spring in light, good soil. It is 
generally sown broadcast. ' 

RUMEX PATIENTICA. Is a native of south of Europe, England; 
is a perennial; part cultivated of the roots; is an herb usable early in the 
spring. 

TANACETUM BALSAMINATA. Mint, native of southern Europe, 
and a perennial plant; has a strong aromatic taste, is used with soup, 
pickle. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 49 



Seventh 3P^L.iRa:_ 



Field Culture of Vegetables. 



Field is used for the culture of such crops of vegetables to grow 
larger crops to suit the demand for commercial purposes. 

If the culture is managed by instructions, good crops will be grown 
if exterminal causes don't prevent it. 



AlHsum Sativum Cepa Linn, Onion. 



It is a biennial. Ripens its seed, with difficulty, the second year. 
The most are native from the Orient. They like rich, mellowy soil, warm, 
medium position, with no other particular care after being planted than 
over-watering by dry weather. The field, for not being freshly manured, 
should be prepared to be ready quite early in the spring. When well 
smoothed sow seed very thinly in rows of eight inches apart and one inch 
deep; when up thin out to three or four inches. This method is observed 
in moderate and hot climate. Otherwise, sets have to be planted by said 
distance for a crop which has to be kept free from weed after the field has 
been rolled, by hand. When the top of the crop begins to color lay it 
down by the back of a rack; after all is dry the gathering can be done. 
There are three varieties suitable for field culture. 



50 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

The purple one is best suited for a hot climate. The two others are 
of a straw yellow color and are in preference. The larger one is a nativ« 
from the island of Madeira. It generally proves a much wanted article. 



Beta Vulgaris, Mangold Root. 



It is a native from the south European seashore. It is a biennial 
Seed ripens on its roots planted out early in the spring the second year, 
which will keep vitable four to five years. 

This crop is cultivated for the manufacture of sugar, and proves 
to be an excellent stock food, especially for the production for milk. 

This crop may be planted after early crop of early turnips, potatoes, 
peas, corn. The field to be deeply plowed, harrowed; if plants already 
grown for, shall be planted in rows, drills twenty to thirty inches apart, and 
plants planted fifteen inches apart in the row, or seed planted one and one- 
half inch deep at a like distance, two seed together but only one plant left 
when both have grown; the other planted where one is missing, and watered 
down. 

The crop is to be kept free of weed and the ground stirr«d. The 
crop hilled when about over half grown; gathered before frosty weather 
and kept frost free. The seed should be planted one and one-half inch 
deep when the crop shall grow. If planted, the points of the roots shall be 
cut off to grow heavier roots. If the weather is moist it brings heavy crops. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 51 



Brassica Oleracea Capitata. Head Cabbage. 



It is a biennial; ripens seed the following year on roots set out with 
the heads on, at a warm position. Cabbage is a well known commercial 
article. Field is needed to grow it in great quantities, for which rich, loose 
soil is needed, which should be deeply plowed; heavily manured in the fall; 
re-plowed when plants are ready to plant out, which may be first or early 
kind. The second, a middle early one, and for late crop as soon as time 
for. The plants to be straight and strong grown; early planted for early 
crop in drill rows three feet apart, and also three feet in the row, by moist, 
rainy weather, if possible; or else have to be watered down. Varieties 
known to grow large, be planted further apart. 

If land for late crops has not been prepared and reserved for, land 
on which an early crop of early turnip being raised may be manured with 
quite rotten manure, if the land should not be good enough without be plowed, 
well prepared. Keep the crop clear of weed, the soil stirred, and prevent 
damaging it by insects. Large drumhead, stone and mammoth marblehead, 
lateflat Dutch. 



Convululus Batatum, Sweet Potato. 



Is a native of China, America and India. There are four kinds 
known in cultivation; one yellow slender growing one called Jersey sweet; 
.a second, of a larger size, less yellow in color; a third one grows to a far 
larger size; a fourth one of white color, and one of a purple color. All are 
of a tender nature and require" another treatment to other potatoes; 



52 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Rooted sprouts has to be raised to plant out for a crop for which to 
raise, a hotbed has to be made withasandbed or of very light earth like peat 
on it, to lay the roots on it lightly covered with sand or some stuff. The 
sashes should be put on and be only lifted when the heat proves to be too 
high or sprinkling is necessary. Sprouts, when three to four inches long, 
be carefully parted from the root; the too poor rooted ones may be planted 
in a cold, sandy-like bed to grow them strong enouth to plant it outdoor, 
on particalar prepared land. Coarse, loamy, sandy-like land rich enough 
without manure it. Just before planting, plow three or four furrows up 
together, to form an oval bed, on level, moist field; when fixed, plant 
eighteen inches apart over the top of it. Keep the crop clean until the vines 
prevents the hoeing, which shall be kept for each row by itself. To dig the 
roots whenever they have grown to satisfactory size; and the general dig- 
ging be done before cold weather begins; a temperate place is needed to 
preserve the roots or by 50 degrees in dry sand or leaves. 



Phascelus. China Alba, Navy Bean. 



It is a native of China, India. It is an annual. It wants to be cul- 
tivated on light, rich soil and different positions; if no flat land can be 
spared for, it can be sown broadcast on new land, where it will bring a 
crop as good as on other; has to be gathered before quite ripe. 



Vicia Faba, Linn, Broadbean. 



Romish bean, it is an annual, native of America, England, Portugal. 
This variety of bean suits to be cultivated on fields; it is not particular 
about soil and position, but brings good crops when cultivated on light, 
rich, part level land in drills two and a half inches deep planted in the drill 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 53 

two inches apart, and the drills at a distance of fifteen inches. It is a 
brown grayish bean, of the shape like the large Lima bean, and for the 
same use; grows straight 3 to 4^ feet high; it is a fast fatening stock feed. 
The horse or mule bean, which is smaller, very productive, of black color, 
cultivates on same method, same soil and position. 



Pisum Sativum, Linn, Peas. 



It is an annual. Peas are a native everywhere now. For dry or 
winter use, field culture is needed to grow large crops; the gray and blue 
sugar are suitable for field culture. 

Sow broadcast or with a sowing machine on medium good, mellowy 
land, about middle of spring. When sown broadcast, harrow it well in; 
this is about what can be done except to harvest it, which has to be done 
before over-ripe. 



Cucumis Citrulus, Water Mellon. 



It is an annual, native of Calabrian, Silien. For field culture, light, 
sandy, rich land, of low moist position, is best adapted for melon culture. 

If the land is not to be found loose enough, plow deeply, plow from 
both sides to the middle to form a slight oval bed of about eight feet wide, 
over which middle short, rotten manure be mixed with the ground wherein 
seeds or plants are planted, which of this same should be tightly covered 
with a glass frame until the plants have begun fairly to vine, to have some as 
early as possible. 

Avoid fresh horse manure near it; water only the vines well over 
after sundown by dry weather, but water by the roots by means of a six- 



54 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

inch flowerpot sunk to the rim near the root, to let the root have the 
required moisture without to water over it, while it is against its nature; 
the overwatering would effect an unsoundness of the root part just above 
the ground, by which the who]e plant would suffer. 

Again, if the whole plant but that part would be so heavily over- 
watered to be also sufficient for the root, the stronger vines may suffer of 
such wet, which should and could not sink for some time, and would also 
damage melons (fruit) before grown to such a size fit to be underlaid with 
slate, glass, etc. 

There are many causes to sickness which plants are soon visited by 
insects which multiplies so fast to destroy crops by very dry weather which 
effects that such plants will be troubled of the red spider, chinch bug, and 
such bulbs of which sometimes all the substance and life is sucked out of 
such plants. 



Carrot, Daucus Carrota. 



It is a native ot the South Sea shores. ' The land for this crop shall 
be of a rich, low, moist nature, deeply and loosely worked up; it don't want 
to be manured freshly, as this crop don't like it; it is better when done in 
in the fall. The surface should be smoothly worked; the fairly rubbed seed 
with dry earth or sand, thinly sown on rows eight inches apart, which is a 
great advantage to the spring sowing, while the seed germinates very slow 
and weeds overpowers the crop before fairly up, otherwise, the seed be 
sown broadcast into a crop of cereal which will be ripe early to harvest; 
The crop has to be kept free of weeds early, if a good one is expected; the 
weeding can faster be done when in rows as otherwise. Carrots are much 
sought for every spring and find a ready market. 

The Long Orange, English Long rooted, Deep Orange, Long Red, 
Albringham, Yellow Belgium, Half Long red, French, etc. It is always a 
first-class stock food, which if it cannot be sold at the market for the 
wanted price. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 55 



Beta Cicla, Beet. 



It is a native from the South Sea shore, and a biennial. The field is 
to be prepared as for carrot, on a like soil and position, but only planted 
seed or plants in one and a half inch deep drills fifteen inches apart and 
six or eight inches in the row, work the crop like any other, gather and 
store it in cellar or pit before frosty weather. 

The blood-red kinds are preferable for the use of salad; it is also 
largely cultivated to manufacture sugar of them. 



Brassica Napus Ratifira, Rutabaga, Turnip. 



It is a biennial, native from the sea coast of Holland. To cultivate 
this root crop, sow the seed in the early spring, on a moist, shady place; 
keep them clean and moist until strong enough to be transplanted on the 
field, which shall be prepared like for head cabbage or mangold root, but 
not freshly manured, and plant this crop at a same distance as the mangold 
root. If no rain while planting, water them well down, and keep the 
springers off by overwatering it frequently, which proves very troublesome 
by dry weather. Keep the ground clean and stirred, and hill when grown 
to half size, which will keep them more tender than when exposed. The 
yellow kind is preferred to the white one, gather before cold weather and 
keep them frost-free in cellar or pit. 

It brings heavy crops; if hot, dry weather is of short duration, and a 
valuable vegetable for spring use and stock food. Seed will remain vitable 
three to four years. 



56 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Bassica Rapa Ratifera, Turnip. 



This is a biennial, bring seed the second year of turnips planted out 
in the spring; of the earliest kind sown early, some may bring seed the first 
year, but only of the very earliest, or seed will result rank growth. 

If the weather is not dry, the land of not too poor and dry in nature, 
this crop will grow almost on any land by coolish, moist weather. The 
best' and heaviest crops grow by cool, wet weather in the fall. Land not 
need to be particularly prepared for; seed may be thinly sown on any weedless 
patch or field broadcast or in rows eight inches apart, on partly loose land 
after early crop of corn, oats, wheat, rye, peas, beans, etc., are cleared off, 
if the seed only can slightly be raked, harrowed or brushed in; the crop 
shall be thinned out to six inches and be kept free of weeds; young crop is 
generally troubled with springers when dry weather and spoil part of the 
crop, but can be partly prevented by oversprinkling with water with over- 
tarred brushes, etc., stuck over the crop. The crop shall be gathered when 
cold weather comes, and kept in cellar, or better, in pits. 

When put eighteen inches under ground in layers, with tops down 
and the ground be kept cool in the spring, will keep good for a good while; 
of which a few kinds can be recommended: Early kinds should be sown 
very early, and for late crop, when other early crops made room for; Early 
White, Top Strap Leaved, Early Snow Ball, White Norfalk, Mammoth 
Purple Tup and the Pamaraien White, also Red Tankard. 

The nature of turnip is a coolish, refrechisent, serves also in spring 
and summer, is a healthy food. 

Raphanus sativus, is a biennial, a native of Asia; the Spanish, or 
black radish is cultivated on very same methods, gathered at the same 
time, kept frost-free until used; laid in moist sand, will keep until monthly 
radishes are grown in the spring. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 57 



Helianthus Tuberasus. 



It is a perennial, bulbus plant, which top grows straight four or five 
feet high and blossoms yellow, produces well in rich, sandy soil; should be 
cultivated like potatoes, but earlier. Only as many bulbs are dug as used 
at the time; when one is in the ground, will never be lost; it is usable in 
place of potatoes, the taste of is like boiled artichok. It is a native of 
Brazil. There is a second kind, which blossoms white, bulbs are of a 
lighter color, and are for the same use. 



To Water Plants when Dug Up to be Transplanted. 



Plants has to be well watered before they are dug up to transplant, 
and carefully dug with earth to the root if possible. All stock roots are to 
be cut back, on plants of spreading roots, carried along moist on a tray by 
planting, and watered down when planted. 

If the stock root is shortened on spreading rooted plants, more finer 
roots, fibers, will grow like by head cabbage, will effect a less coarse and 
solider head. If the point of long, heavy rooting plants is shorter, not like 
on beet, mangold root, rutabagas, etc., the root will grow heavier. 



58 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Solanum Tuberosum, Potato. 



The name of this culture is known all over the world, and also cul- 
tivated. 

It can be grown from seed, which has to be sown on a hotbed in 
sandy-like, rich. soil early in the spring to grow strong young plants to 
plant them first on a cold bed in some kind of soil until all have grown to 
about the same size, when a piece of ground is ready prepared where to be 
planted. 

A second method is: plant cutting of sprouts sprouted in a cellar, 
pit, or sprouts of newly planted ones sprouting through the ground, which 
are to be put in a half hotbed of a sandy nature, and treated like the above 
mentioned, and hardened by exposing them to free air before they will be 
planted out of door. 

A third method is: cut choice bulbs into parts that each has one eye 
and to be cut to the center of the bulb. The - cuts shall be dried with 
cinders, soot, and shall be planted when so far dry show to shrink, the part 
with the eye shall be highest. 

A fourth method is: plant whole bulbs, but none smaller than the 
size of a Guinea's egg. Plant no other but of choice kinds, sure to grow 
a good crop of. All be planted at a like distance, in rows from twenty- 
four to thirty inches apart, and in the rows fifteen inches. 

The nature of the soil should be a porus, rich, aluvial one, when 
possible new land of a moist nature, drainable, not wet, neither high 
rolling. 

Land of a porus, brown colored leave mouldy part sandy nature on 
which sod, wood, etc., being burnt, not too dry, not too wet, is considered 
best, and good crops has been grown on it. 



Garden, orchard and field culture. 59 



Preparation of the Land when Plowed. 



It shall be free of stone, stumps, roots, etc. Plow well to loosen the 
soil all through, harrow and straight furrows of three or four inches deep 
twenty-four to thirty inches apart, and plant with a hoe, fifteen inches in 
the row, and cover two to three inches. Before the crop grows through 
the ground, work up lightly, that all will grows up equally, and no clods 
hinder its growth. Not neglect to work it as soon as a few inches high 
till hilled. The crop will be nearly full grown a while after the blossom has 
dropped and the top begins to color, but requires to be left in the ground 
until the top is fully dry, without being dried from drought or an extermi- 
nal cause. 



Second Part Grain Crop. 



AVENA SATIVA. Oats. There are different kinds of oats which 
is mostly cultivated for stock food, for horses and mules, and for manufact- 
ory of oat meal. 

The variety changes as to climate and soil, and is found difficult to 
find the kind to suit same soil and climate. 



60 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

AVENA TURGIDA. White Oats, of coarse long growth, coarse 
straw, with a long ear, is an English variety. 

AVENA GEOGEONA. Oats grown in Georgia, is white of a very 
strong kind, is of a good growth white good kind. 

AVENA SIBERICA. Oats of early growth, earliest ripe, also im- 
ported to Georgia, America; is also of white grain. 

AVENA JOANETT. Oats of black grain. It being grown about 
New Orleans, America; said to be a heavy producer; wants to be cut before 
quite ripe. 

AVENA NAIR. Another black grained kind, shorter grained; the 
ears grape shaped like, and is a good producer. 

WHEAT. There are three principal varieties in grain, or called 
red weather, half-red and half-violet. Of these principal kinds are a great 
number, and do change as to soil and climate. 

BARLEY. Of which are two kinds as principal ones: one, a winter 
barley, sown in the fall, produces a bearded, roundish ear; the second, 
called summer barley, sown in the spring, while too delicate to stand ftie 
winter; the form of ears is mostly a flat one. 

RYE. This the tallest grown of all grains, produces a smaller grain 
than any other, of a brown, grayish color, of which flour is made for 
brown bread. All this grain producing culture is only cultivated on fields 
which are of a substantial nature, neither too light nor too heavy, smoothly 
harrowed, the grain sown with a sowing machine or broadcast by hand. 
All this variety of grain should be changed whenever unsatisfactory results 
are found with on good soil and position and grown by favorable weather. 
Get samples of grain, and test them by growth, by which method to get 
the proof which suits soil and climate best. 

ZEA MAIS. Corn. It is a well-known annual all over America, 
where it is a native. The culture is so well known here that it needs no 
description, only an advise to cultivate it on such position (field) and in 
such substantial soil as its nature like it, and a change from time to time. 
Also, to cultivate the different kinds separate the one a distance from the 
other, of which to grow seed; especially broom corn, separate from any 
other; also pop corn must be cultivated quite a distance from other which 
is intended for seed. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 61 



Oriza Sativa Mutica, Rice. 



It is a native of China. Cultivated in India and America, in a 
tropical climate. Said variety is sown broadcast, or by sowing machine, 
in time of the wet season on low, light, sandy-like soil. 

The second variety, oriza Montana, is sown about the same season 
on high land. If the weather should prove insufficiently wet after the seed 
is sown, it has to be kept watered until fairly up. These are the two prin- 
cipal kinds of many. 



Third Part of Field Culture. 



To Grow for Stock Food and Grain. 



The grain of the following named kinds are most used for the com- 
merce, to re-cultivation as most of the previous ones are more used for 
human food. 

ALAPECARUS PRATENSIS. Vulpin, or a kind of high, straight 
growing, somewhat a raw looking grass; it likes a dry position and grows 
in wet soil. 



62 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA. Is a kind of English prairie grass. 
This likes a great deal ot moisture; would hardly bring any crop on dry 
soil. Is suitable for meadows. 

ACROSTIS DISPAR. Called herd grass; it is a good kind; brings 
good crops on good, wet soil, if porous. Sow it thinly in early spring or 
fall. 

BROMUS PRATENSIS. Is a prairie grass. This kind brings good 
crops if not cultivated on too poor land, and not suffering of dry weather; 
is suitable for lawns. 

FESTUCA ELEVE. Is a perennial prairie grass, a late variety, 
while of a vigorous growth and very productive, of a very durable kind, 
besides. Bears to sow it mixed when thinly sown. 

FESTUCA RUBRA. Resembles the ovine. It is a good pasture 
variety, if sown on medium heavy, not too dry, soil, either early in the 
spring or fall. It has proven to be of a long duration, and the hay of first- 
class. 

FETUCA PURPURATA. Also suitable for a prairie grass, which 
is of a finer growth. When sown on medium good bottom land brings 
excellent and heavy crops. 

FLEOLE OR PLEMN PRATENSE. English timothy; this kind 
is durable and produces well by itself and thinly sown on prairie-like land, 
which is not too wet nor too dry. 

FLEOLE ODORANT. It is of a weak growth but of good quality, 
mixed sown with a variety of a stronger growth to make hay of. It can be 
found on low and high land, but does best on low land of heavy loam. 
This is a fine kind and durable; suits well for a lawn variety. 

HOLCUS LANTANUS. Brings heavy crops on fresh, moist-like 
prairie land. Is also of first-class; has generally a green appearance when 
dry, but proves to be an excellent food. 

LOLIUM PERENN. English rye grass, proves to be of good kind 
for meadow and lawn. It is found along highways and other dry like places 
thickly grown. Found very durable and thickly grown on lawns; also pro- 
ductive for meadow if cultivated on heavy loam. In light soil bear to be 
cultivated with clover when thinly sown. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 6 3 

LOLIUM ITALICUM. Italian rye grass, it is a well known variety, 
suitable for lawn; can be called a perennial for its durability. It grows 
and stalks thickly for a few years, if well, instead mistreated. 

PATURIN MEMORALIS. Byshops grass, poi angustifolia, this 
kind proves as durable as the Australian prairie grass, which often has little 
or no moisture by rain or dew a whole season. It improves well when 
only half partly kept by rolling, mowing, watering by very dry weather, 
and a light mulching through winter. This kind is not particular about 
soil; does well in sand. 

POA PRATENSE OR PATURIN PRATENSE. Sow this kind of 
prairie grass early in the spring or fall to have time to root fairly before 
cold weather, and mulch lightly. If in the spring let it have moisture to 
root well on any patches for lawn of medium good soil and it will do well. 
Sow thinly when mixed with timothy for meadow on moist position of good 
loam, but only sow in early spring. The two kinds have been found doing 
well on poorly soil in the shade under forest trees. 

Blue grass has got into favor, while it is cultivated with hardly any 
care, but proves to be a suitable lawn grass. 

The festuca varieties are of a hard nature, grows strong even on poor 
high land, but cultivated as previously stated, brings better feed. 

ELEUSINE CORACANA. Is an annual; native of Africa. The 
seed looks like millet seed; it contains flour of good quality and is used 
there as food by the natives. It has been exported and is now cultivated 
with success in other countries. It produces somewhat raw feed, but heavy 
crops. It is not very unlike, in production, to ovena elatior; the only 
difference that ovena elatior suffers by wet while the other likes it. 

LOLIUM MULTIFLORUM. Is a British rye grass. It is an an- 
nual. Grows an abundance of seed on a tall rough top, which is known o( 
good production, and liked by some stock, green or dry. It wants to be 
sown in in the fall or very early in spring. 

HORDEUM BULBOSUM. This is also one of heavy growth when 
cultivated in medium good and moist soil, and is mostly used while green. 
It is a perennial. When sown it shall be soAvn early in the spring. It culti- 
vated by dividing roots it grows faster than of seed. 



64 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

SECALE CERIAL VERNUM. This kind of grass is grown for food 
and grain, of which are several varieties; produces large crops when its 
culture is fairly known. It is known as quite a nutrious food, when fed 
green or dry, but it is mostly used in a green state. 

There are different kinds which want a different time in culture. 
The above named shall be sown early in the spring in a cold climate to 
grow a good crop the same year. It grows to medium height. 

SECALE MULTICAULE. This kind should be sown in the fall in 
a moderate climate, otherwise, in the spring it grows taller than the pre- 
ceding one, and mostly used green. If sown in the fall it will bring an 
earlier crop the following year, and better ripened seed. It is called St. 
John secale. 

There is another kind of same name and is nearly alike, which can 
be sown at different times through the year. 

A third kind by the same, name of Russian secale multicaule, which 
proves of a more vigorous, tender growth, of a larger and more grain than 
any other. It is earlier and of a better quality. It is generally sown in 
early spring. 

SECALE ROMAIN. Romernish secale, this is of a bland color 
and produces the largest grain. 

There are other kinds of this culture, but only these are specified, 
which have proven best in culture. 

The culture of all varieties of the grass family is as important as the 
vegetable culture, but those who don't seek such an interest in it as to have 
it fairly tried, never will know the difference in the results of it; never will 
know which kind will suit the soil, position and the climate they are in; 
again, never know the kinds which want to be cultivated alone, or want to 
be mixed with any others. 

A. tender variety can be changed in its nature when sown mixed with 
a very hard one in nature within three or four years, while another wants a 
higher kind in growth to protect it. Some like to be mixed and grow; do 
well with Clover, Sucern, Esparctta, if these three kinds are sown thinly to 
protect some of the tender grasses. The same tender, low vegetables do 
well cultivated under high ones to be under protection, unless there would 
be no success in growing them. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 65 

Most grasses want care, protection by mulching through winter, 
frequent, or at least, spring rolling. Most all need a deal of moisture. The 
long rooting kinds need a deep, loose soil with part on under moisture. 

TRIFOLIUM INCARNATUM. Clover ordinarily is a biennial. 
It very s-eldom grows to seed the first year. Wants to be cultivated by 
itself and re-cultivated every three years. Produces heavy crops. Is best 
profitable when fed green, but is dangerous to stock when young. Is not of 
much value. Dry when nearly leafless. 

TRIFOLIUM PRATENSE. Clover, of a strong growth, blossoms 
red. It is known and held for the best variety by clover growers. It likes 
a substantial, deep, loose like soil, with part under moisture. It will last 
three to four years. 

TRIFOLIUM ALBA. White stone dwarf clover, is of little account 
for feed; serves on places where little else grows, or mixed sown with some 
stout growing bunch, like grass. It grows wild nearly all over. 

TRIFOLIUM HYBRIDUM. Clover, as a perennial, mixed sown 
with prairie, rye grass, for meadows or pasture field, especially in not a 
cold climate, cultivated on medium heavy and partly moist land. Its blos- 
soms are rose-colored, mixed with greenish white; the leaves are glaucish 
and glabrish. 

TRIFOLIUM RUBRA. Red clover, its nature affords to>e culti- 
vated in a cool climate, where the soil remains cool around its roots, and 
be thinly mixed sown with some grass varieties. 

TRIFOLIUM MOLINERL Is adapted for a northern cttmate. 
Wants to be mixed sown where soil kept cool. Likes medium heavy, moist 
soil. It don't grow quite as high as the ordinary red clover. 

TRIFOLIUM ELEGANT. Clover of rose and white color. It 
will last to four years on medium good, moist sod, but don't like a climate 
either too cold or too hot. 

MEDICAGO SAT1VA. Lucern, native of Chili. It likes a rich 
soil of a sandy, gravelly nature, in which it will last several years, and be 
thinly sown mixed with clover molineri or incarnata. It is a deeper rooting 
plant than clover and brings three or four crops a season. It shall be sown 
early in the spring and will produce a crop the same season. 



66 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

MEDICAGO MEDIA OR LUCERN RUSTIC. It also likes a 
deep, loose soil, in which it will last for many years as a perennial plant. 
It needs to be thinly sown. Stalks will grow to over three feet high and 
produces three heavy crops. It is also a good grower in a northern 
climate. 

MEDICAGO FALCATA. This kind is not so particular about soil 
and climate; is also a perennial, of a hard nature. Grows on dry soil; 
grows less high than the previous one, but stalks well. All are dangerous 
to stock when fed young, but is an excellent dry food, if dried well with its 
leaves on. 

HEDYSARUM ONOBRYCHIS. Esparctta, native of Spain. It is 
a perennial. Does very well in same kind of soil, position and climate of 
the lucern, but is not particular; it grows even on mountainous places, on 
clay, rocky, slaty places. It is of straight growth, with beautiful rose flower 
and does as an ornamental perennial plant on garden and lawn. Produces 
an excellent food, green or dry, for all kinds of stock. It is generally sown 
mixed with grass seed suitable for high prairie. 

ULEX EUROPEUS. Juniperberry, Shrub. Part of this shrub 
furnishes a moist, valuable food for stock prepared mixed with other short 
food as a medicine; which is known as a good actor to health, when used 
in spring, and especially late fall, it will be a good appetiser and a pre- 
ventative against some sickness. All crackable parts with the berries be 
gathered and well cracked mixed with short food for about ten days to 
about eight to ten per cent. 



Food for Stock of Plants of a Vegetable Nature. 



ERVUM ERVILLIA. Is an annual; is of a heating nature; the 
seed, which is black round, is pigeon food. The crop, while green, serves 
plowed under, as green manure for bean, melon, cucumber crop. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 67 

FABA VULGARTSEQUINA. Feve. It is cultivated annually, 
and will serve for green food cut green, the seed serves, mixed with oats, 
secale, etc., as dry food. 

LENTILLE, or LATHYRUS SATIVUS. It is an annual. Shall 
be sown early in the spring, cult,vated for all kinds of stock feed used 
green. When it don't freeze out, like in a moderate climate, it can be 
sown in the fall for early spring crop. 

LATHYRUS HIRSUTUS. Is also an annual, can be sown in the 
fall; will start its growth and don't freeze, and serves for same use. 

LATHYRUS CICERE. Grows on dry, poor soil; It serves for 
sheep feed and green manure. 

PISUM OVENSE. Peas, for sheep, is an annual, is sown in the 
spring. It is cultivated to gather the seed for cooking use, or for green feed 
for sheep and for green manure to plow in. 

LINUM USITATISSIMUM. Flax, annual; it is sown every spring 
early to bring ripe seed before fall. Of this seed linseed is made, which is 
a great commercial article. There are a few kinds, but most vigorous, 
strongest growing ones are in preference. It blossoms white; it is a native 
of America. It likes rich, light soil. As soon as the seed is about ripe it 
is cut or pulled up with the roots dryed and the seeds threshed off or sep- 
arated from the rest. The rest are cleaned in different manners; spun and 
manufactured into fine linen. 

All grain of .such cultures are sown by machine or broadcast by 
hand, harrowed in and rolled at such weather when no earth will stick to 
roller and feet. Such land should be smooth and free of anything for a 
clean cut by machine, etc. 



6£ GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



IEjIgihitih: I?_iL.:RT_ 



Weeding and thinning out young crops should not be neglected, and 
should be done at proper time. If plants stand too thick at one place and 
too thin on another these places should be filled by planting of the above. 
If dry, water well to lift it undamaged: as for weeds, which can be easier 
pulled when moist. Between the rows of plants weeding is faster done and 
weed sooner destroyed by means of hoeing, etc. And all plants amongst 
weed no use for are no better than weed. When crop is thinned out proper- 
ly to give plants the required room they sooner will grow to perfection, if too 
thick, most will be rank growth, nothing better than weed, too many 
plants hinder others to grow to perfection and take useless substance out 
of the soil. 

Often some plants grown up amongst others of which no seed being 
sown which can be called weed, if on an improper place can be called 
weed, as asparagus, horse radish, portulaca and others. 

The nourishment of crops (plants) besides manure, are air, (oxygen) 
dew, water. Rainwater is best for all kinds of plants, but to over-water 
plants should be avoided by hot sunshine, but as much as needed. Most 
plants like a strong over-watering after sundown. Quite young, low plants 
need to be carefully watered, not to be splashed with earth, covered or 
damaged. To water seed need to be done by same care, and be kept moist 
until fairly started in growth, unless when part sprung the germ may be 
burnt by the heat of the hot earth. Liquid water of manure, etc., is a good 
help to grow crops. 

The foliage of plants has to be kept clean or will suffer for air, which 
is the main part of life. If plants are covered with dust and dirt trte 
perspiration for air is stopped, the moisture in plants draws back, the plant 
begins to sicken, the ends of the leaves get redish yellow, which indicates 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 69 

sickness and will the sooner die if already belayed with insects, effected by 
insufficient moisture and dirt; if not in time well washed off, no matter 
how strong and deep, plants are rotted, which are of a suculent or vegetable 
nature. The whole plant will suffer when the part has got inactive, which 
shall take air and moisture to live. 

The better the nature of soil suits the nature of plants, the faster it 
grows and the more moisture it requires. 

A cultivator cultivates crops which he expects to grow as fast as 
possible to maturity and perfection, therefore, it is very important to know 
what soil, by nature, suits the nature of one and all plants he will cultivate 
as well as to position. 

Only a few vegetable plants grow well in the shade, which are 
already specified. All others need to be grown on an open, sunny, low 
position, in substantial, not too heavy, moist soil; therefore, the most of 
them are natives from the south European seashores. 

A regular vegetable grower, market gardener, finds but little time to 
meddle with floriculture, and is in general ahead of a florist. 



Manuring, Plowing and Nature of Manure. 



Heavy land should be heavily manured in the fall with mixed manure 
and plowed under with the beginning of cold weather. Such manure will 
partly decay, the ground will get loose of with the frequest freezing and 
thawing, besides, to be sooner ready to plant or sow on early crop by the 
least favorable weather; new land should be plowed through winter. 

Already cultivated land, which is not free of weed and require 
manuring for the crop concluded to be cultivated, or may also be manured 
and plowed; when found necessary to be re-plowed for certain early crop; 
all land shall be newly plowed, broken, prepared to receive a crop. 
Avoid manuring late in the spring for any crop, unless with quite rotten ma- 
nure, considering necessary and suit the nature of the plant, of which are 
few besides the Brassica, or Cabbage family; because, manure, if not in quite 



}o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

decayed and well mixed with the earth, does generally more harm than 
good by dry weather. 

All land, when plowed (broken up), shall be even, loose and free 
from clods that roots find an easy way to grow. 



Kind of Manure, and its Nature. 



Cattle manure is known as the best for all culture and for all kinds 
of soil; it is a fat neither of a cool or heating nature. 

Horse, mule, sheep, goat is of a heating nature; it is suitable for land 
of cool, wet, heavy nature; poultry, and manure of all kinds of birds, is of 
a hot, fast-heating nature to be used carefully as manure liquid for plants 
of a cool, slow-growing nature; hog manure if of a cool nature, suitable to 
manure orchard, or for vegetation of a hot nature exposed to the sun 
planted in light; sandy-like soil. 

Street compost fairly decomposed is suitable for any kind of soil 
and also for any kind of vegetation; other compost, made of leaves, weeds, 
sweeping, wood, cinder, brush, refuse or garbage of any kind of vegetation, 
human and animalisher manure, equally composed together, will decompose 
rapidly, by mixing the whole well with fresh air-slacked lime and chemicals 
which will also suit well, when well decomposed, for any kind of soil and 
vegetation, when practically well mixed and not in over-quantity applied." 

DRY MANURE. (Fertilizer), of which I will note only a few 
Bonedust crushed green and dry with marrow in, is a fet substance to be 
applied thinly, but has no visible effect to crops the first year. 

Guano is a very fast-acting stuff, thinly, carefully to be applied by 
rainy weather, or in water. Both bonedust and guano, or bonedust and 
air-slacked lime should be thinly sown and harrowed in, are good fertilizers 
for tobacco, flax, corn crops, etc. Liquid manure of human and animals, 
manure blood, guano, refuse of slaughter houses, soot, etc., are valuable 
fertilizers to most of the vegetable culture. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 71 

GREEN MANURE. Crops for this purpose can be grown and 
plowed under, which are dangerous to be ftd while green and when dry are 
of little account for feed, which are annuals of a vegetable nature. Which 
are brassica oleracea campesteis, ervum ervilla ears, faba vulgaris, faba or 
favi lathyrus hirsutus, cicer, lupinus albus, media sativa, millet-or panium 
italicum, pisum arvense, peas, raphanus sativus, vesco villosa vesk. 



Plants Which Grow in the Shade. 



Some shady places are to be found in gardens and fields, where it 
suits plants by nature to grow on shady places, which can be utilized for 
such culture: Allium chenoparsum, allium cscalonium, cress, caraway, 
beans; endiven, winter green kehl, parsley, oxalis, New Zealand Spinach, 
winter spinach, the Chili and African strawberry, Alpine raspberry, black- 
berry, Alpine strawberry, filberts and mispelus. 



When Seed Shall be Sown. 



Besides the twelve figures in the almanac is the moon, which has 
great influence on the growth of plants. By a close observation for years 
it was found that seed should be sown by certain signs, not to blame itseli 
when rank grown crops grow of the very best seed, particularly, sown in 
good, well prepared soil, kept by good care. Or, for what are all the figures, 
only to look at in the almanac ? 

Seed has to be sown and it matters very little by a few days' differ- 
ence to sow seed. 

Sow first seed as directed at different times ami by different 
signs to have your proof. Do it for a trial; it cost> you no more than 



72 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

when sowing it down without knowing when and how. Sow beans by 
ascension of the moon or first quarter, by the figures of the Twins or 
Fishes. Also peas and ocras. 

Sow carrot, parsnip and all other rooted crops, also, beet, radishes, 
turnip-rooted celery, mangold root, rutabagas, turnips, by the figure of 
Fish or Scale, by descending moon. Sow head cabbage, cauliflower by 
the sign of Scale, a few days before a full moon; also, Brokloi. 

Sow turnip-rooted cabbages and the yellow rutabaga by the sign of 
Fishes and Scale, descending moon. 

Sow celery, leek, cardoon, by the sign of Fishes or Twins, in first 
quarter of moon. 

Sow lettuce by sign of Scale, by half full moon. 

Sow curled endive, parsley, cress, curled dwarf kehl, Brussels 
sprouts, Krous winter kehl, feathrekehl, by sign of Maid and Crab, by dark 
of the moon. 

Sow spinash by sign of Waterman, or Maid, dark of the moon. 

Cucumber by sign of Waterman, of first quarter. 

Sow melons, egg plants, spinach, pumpkins, tomatoes, large pepper, 
by sign of Scale, full moon. 

Onion, by the sign of Steer, full moon. 

Potatoes, in Scale, near full moon; also, sweet potatoes. 



ZLTihsttih: H?-iL.:RT. 



Asparagus Brussannettu, Hops. 



It is a perennial, glaborus, vining creeper. Is a native of middle and 
eastern Europe; can be found wild in sandy, rich, low places along rivers, 
amongst the wood to creep on the same. It is of about the same nature of 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 73 

the general asparagus, with a pivoin-like root and produces sprouts on the 
crown of the roots like asparagus, which are also of the same use. 

If the soil is not of a loose, sandy, rich nature, it should be made so 
by digging trenches or holes and be filled with such soil to suit its nature. 

It shall be planted three feet apart in the row, and four feet between 
rows, planted with sandy leave-mould, light hotbed earth. Every plant 
needs a strong pole eight to ten feet long, solidly planted. The second 
year they bring a full crop, which will be ripe about the latter part of Sep- 
tember, when picked off and stored six or eight inches thick on a shady 
floor where fully dry, and stirred with a stick a few times until fully dry, 
and packed in good drill sacks for the market. 



Necotiana Tobacum, Tobacco Culture. 



Tobacco is one of the greatest and most valuable commercial articles, 
therefore, a very extended culture is needed. 

To grow good tobacco and a good crop, seed has to be secured of 
choice kinds, of which sets have to be raised early in the spring to have 
enough plants ready grown to plant out on suitable land as early as no 
more frosts are to be feared. 

Choose an open, sunny, dry place; burn a big pile of wood brushes, 
sod manure on it, which will burn all weed-seed, insects on it. Put a low 
hotbed frame twelve by twenty, holding four four foot wide sashes; 
dig up lightly and mix half with leave-mould with half if none is on the 
burnt spot; level well and sow the seed which should have been well soaked 
with hot water before and dried with sand or cinders very thinly and 
sprinkle a little sand over or over-brouse with warm water. It is possible 
to grow 700 plants under one sash, and 10,000 plants can be grown of one 
ounce of good seed. These plants to raise need fair attention to keep them 
free of weed and moist by a little above temperature. 

The land to grow this crop on shall be of a rich, light, loamy nature 
and of a level, moist position. It wants to be evenly marked by plowing, 



74 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

harrowing, rolling, and marked off by a marker (heavy rake) of three feet 
each way and a plant planted on each cross, and slightly watered down 
when not rainy. Whenever a plant begins to look flatry-like after it has 
has taken root there is likely to be a cutworm by, which is to be found and 
killed and another plant set on the same place of the one being damaged. 
The crop has to be kept free of weed, hoed, and as soon as it begins to 
blossom the tops have to be taken off, to leave according to the size of the 
plant, from four to eight leaves. All shoot between leaves and shoot as 
well as on the root by daily brake-out. 

If some of the lower leaves begins to be covered with brown spots, 
the crop is ready to be harvested, and brought under roof in the best man- 
ner without damaging any. 

When dry and fit to handle, bundled and pack it for the store or 
market. 



Grapevine Culture. 



VITIS VINIFERA. The grapevine is a native of Asia and Amer- 
ica. It is a strong growing creeper, and can often be seen that it has 
taken hold on the top of a tall forest tree. Its fruit is generally of a small 
sized berry of dark and bitter taste. 

It has so far been improved to produce, in a hot and moderate cli- 
mate, a great number and choice varieties of excellent fruit through fair 
cultivation. 

The first method to propoget is of seed which will produce in a hot 
or other climate grown, in suitable soil will produce improved fruit. 

By a second method, eyes are cut out with half an inch of wood on 
each side and laid on a moist sandbed under glass, and kept moist, which 
will soon start to grow if kept by a moist heat from 75 to go degrees. 
This preparation is done in early spring. This moist heat is slackened 
when this eye has grown to about six inches long, and may be transplanted 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 75 

(but by care) either in pots or on a suitable bed outdoor eight to twelve 
inches apart. 

The third method is the well-known common one? cutting made also 
in the spring, from fresh trimmed off wood, made of the solidest canes, cut 
close to an eye at the lower end with three or four eyes in length, planted 
in sandy-like, fresh and loosly dug ground twelve to fifteen inches apart, 
and kept moist by dry weather; all should be labeled. 

Either of the two will begin to bear the third year, if planted the 
second year, when strong grown. 

Layers can be made in the spring of the previous year's growth, 
grown nearest to the ground, and bent into a four by six inch hole and 
hooked well down with a wooden hook, and the point cut above the second 
eye from the ground. When not disturbed, and kept moist, it will root so 
well to be transplanted in the fall to bear the following year. 

Vines can be budded and will readily bear some fruit, when done as 
early as the bark loosens from the wood. This budding is made the same 
as on trees. 

There are about 200 varieties known, of which the fleshy, thick- 
skinned ones are most for eating use. Those in which the seed without 
pulp is seen, are more vinous, and are suitable to make wine from them. 

This last named is of a solider nature in wood, and of closer growth 
nearer in the limbs. 

The former needs to be planted at a distance of from fifteen to 
twenty feet apart in the row, and fastened to wires or trellises, if not plant- 
ed on the side of walls or harbors, while the varieties for wine only needs to 
be six feet apart when trained on poles, otherwise, from eight to fifteen 
feet apart. 

Limbs on old vines, which have been left too long by trimming, may 
be laid into a twelve by fifteen inch ditch, with three eyes on the previous 
year's growth, with the points off to two eyes above ground, or, such limbs 
may be tied bent to weaken the top's growth, to grow canes nearer the old 
root. 

Old vines, with solid canes, grown the previous year, can be trans- 
planted, which will bear some fruit the same year. Of which the old limbs 
the damaged roots be trimmed back and the old roots as well. Plant them 



76 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



into a fifteen by eighteen inch ditch with sound, solid canes of last year's 
growth; cut the points back to two eyes above ground. This young canes 
well take root next, under surface and be a renewed, sound young vine. 
The old vine or the roots at it will (root) grow again, if sound and not too 
old and stout. 



Pruning. 



Xo newly planted vines, or very few, will be of such a strong growth 
as to require to be pruned as those of two years' growth, only need be little 
trimmed back, as those of a fair growth shall be practically pruned. Leave 
two canes, each of three eyes, one to the left and one to the right, which to 
be tied to the lower wire or strip. One shank ,of two eyes, of which fruit 
canes will grow to bear fruit the following year. The fruit canes which did 
bear or not shall be trimmed back to make room for the new ones, which 
may be trimmed to two eyes longer, with two shanks again. The vine 
might have grown that stong that one or two fruit canes with two or three 
eyes on each may be left above the lower ones and drained to the second 
or than to the third wire. If the fruit canes are left too long, with too many 
eyes on, the vine will become naked (minus) of canes near the root, and 
some of the lower eyes on the cane will be weakened by the upper ones, 
which take the strength of the lower ones which prove useless. 

If a vine should have many strong, yonng canes on, more than four 
fruit canes may be left, if room for them to be well divided, or knots of two 
eyes, which will grow fruit canes, but shall be trimmed kack to keep the 
vine in shape. 

Fall pruning has proven to an advantage against late spring trim- 
ming, while at this time the vines lose strength at the bud by bleeding, of 
which the wet runs over, the eyes will be damaged when frosty weather. 

If late pruning is repeated several years, the vines will be weakened 
to die. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 77 

Pole vines, if not very strong, should be strictly trimmed to leave 
two fruit canes of about five to seven eyes and two shanks. All the fruit 
canes should be fastened to the proper places before the buds get too big, 
to avoid damage, but as long as they are loose, don't get so soon damaged 
by frost, as they are moved by the least air, and keep more dry. 

When vines are primed in the fall, fastened, bent down, covered 
with earth, straw, manure, protected against wet and sleet, the root gets also 
covered. The land can be regulated, and the vines left covered till the 
heaviest frosts are passed, will be found to an advantage. 



Care While in Vegetation. 



Vines strong enough grown should be regulated before they begin to 
blossom. Those strong enough with fruit on shall be pinched off above the 
second leaf above the last fruit, or bunch, ?.nd all loosely tied, by danger to 
be broken off by wind. This is to be repeated after blossoms have dropped. 
All canes without fruit, if not, shanks must be taken off. The stronger 
cane on a shank be unpinched, loosely tied. At this time the vine affords 
the greatest care, and be examined every day about insects. 



Acarus Delarius or Red Spider. 



It is an invisible insect. It is to say a bad parasite, and nobody as 
yet is sure where it syrings from, except there is a believing that the horse, 
mule manure, or the steam of same, is the cause of. 

While mushroom is cultivated by a preparation of such manure, in 
an enclosed, nearly tight place, and such a mushroom crop, by a same 
cause, is swept off in no time, without a visible cause. This insect is shel- 



73 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. ' 

tered under leaves in hot shade; there it sucks all the substance of the 
leaves, and also of the young grape, into which it grows and lives in it, causes 
part to rot the grapes. Those berries which have not dropped and can't 
fully ripen, are the cause of, and which can be seen in the berry, but not 
with the naked eye. 

As soon as any leaves are belayed with, they have a rusty appearance 
(color) at the under side. 

This parasite, if not noticed at first and its spreading prevented, 
will, within about forty-eight hours, be spread over large patches of vine, 
cucumber, melon, bean, squashes, strawberries. 

Sulphur is a preventive if the lower side of the leaves are over- 
dusted with, also sulphur, blue stone, vitriol, moory-salt, diluted in hot 
water, when cooled off put a portion of solution of iron by and syringe well 
the under side of plants with this solution. 

As long as moist, rainy weather remains it seems this insect has no 
effect on plants, as it is the case when dry and hot. 

This insect has very rarely been found on plants in the cool country, 
and only at some parts. 

But another air parasite called odium tuckeri, on grapes only, in a 
form of a grayish white mould, by part misty, cool, moist weather, which 
rather causes the berries to break open and to rot not ripen. Where the 
cause springs from is unknown. The fruit and juice as wine used of plant 
which has been belayed with such a parasite may prove fatal to human 
nature, without knowing what the cause would be and may prove incurable. 



Agaricus Edulis, Mushroom. 



The varieties of mushroom are numerous and great Care is to be 
taken not to mistake poisonous ones for usable kinds, while poisonous ones 
effect, generally, fatal causes. Therefore they are, and be cultivated, which 
is done on different methods. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 79 

When successfully cultivated in or about large cities may pay as well 
as a poor crop of strawberries, and can be cultivated through the whole 
year. 

Since mushroom, spawn or white, is known, it can be used whenever 
prepared for. 

Prepare a bed of strawless horse or mule manure of three and one- 
half feet in thickness on a dry place, close, almost air-tight, and dark and 
warm. Lay the bed in a long or nearly square -shaped, solid, rammed 
lightly with a piece of plank. As soon as it steams well all over, if not 
packed between walls change the outside inside. It shall be in size and 
shape of a stout hotbed walled in, and has lost the smell of manure; press 
the manure down with your hand to be equally solid over the top. 

After this, begin to plant mushroom spawn or white two-inch pieces 
two inches deep all over where no room is needed to tend to; cover all 
over with a light cover, until lifted by mushrooms. This crop will last from 
two to four weeks. Spring and summer are the best seasons. Not too old 
cucumber and melon beds are suitable to grow mushroom of spawn white, 
but has to be kept Avell closed and shaded. 

Mushroom spawn or white can be obtained on a high, dry pasture of 
horses and sheep. They appear early in the fall and can be found where 
spider-like threads are seen. Where this spider-like thread begins is the 
seed, and place to cut square-like pieces of about four inches deep out the 
ground, which shall be dryed and preserved until use. 



Tenth ZF^irt. 



Fruit Tree and Other Fruit Culture. 



PYRUS MALUS. Apple; a seed fruit. To grow stock root to 
grow sound, healthful, well-bearing trees, sow the seed of choice fruit of 



8o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

healty, good-bearing trees, for high orchard trees to grow of. Also, seed 
of Pyrus malus pumila; Pyrus malus praccox; Pyrus malus fruitecase, which 
are the three principal kinds to grow stock root for half dwarf apple trees, 
and lower, when treated for by trimming. 

PRYUS CUMUNIS. Pears; also a seed fruit. Stock root for pear 
is grown of the cydania communis, or quince, by seed, or of cutting in the 
month of July, on a sandy dike bed in the shade; also, of wild pear seed? 
and of crateagas alba, white thorn. Dwarf kinds of pears do well on quince 
stock; pears of a strong growth, on the other stock. 

CYDONIA COMMUIS. Quince is a seed fruit; grows to a pear 
like shape, with a yellowish, green, raw-like skin. When ripe, a while after 
being gathered, is of a lemondike color; used for preserves. 

AMYGDALUS PEPSICA. Peach; it is a stone fruit. There are 
two principal kinds, as cling and free stone, which are most of a velvet 
color when ripe; those of the largest blossoms brings the largest fruit. To 
grow stock roots for peach trees, plant seed of the choicest fruit. Stock 
root of apricot and almond is well adapted for. 

ARMENIACA YULGARIS. Apricot; stone fruit. Seed of the very 
choicest fruit is to be sown to grow stock root of. Root stock of almonds, 
plums, are suitable to graft apricots on it; also cherries dulsis, or black 
cherry root stock. 

AMYDALUS CUMMUNIS. Almond, is a nut or shell fruit apricot 
and almond roots are of pivoin-like nature. Both are of a gummy nature, 
like peach and cherry. Its nature affords a mild climate. 

To grow seedlings of, plant seed three inches apart. The one grows 
up first and strongest generally brings good fruit, the weak ones be taken 
oft. There are three or four kinds of hard and soft shell of a sweet and 
some of a bitter taste. 

The peach almond brings both sweet and bitter; those grown in the 
sun are sweet, the other bitter. They furnish graft-root of seed for its 
own stalk; stock-root of plums, peaches, can be used for. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 81 



Prunus Domestica and Prunus Insitita. 



It is a hard stone fruit. It grows numerously wild in different 
countries, of which stock-root from seed or suckers be raised to furnish its 
own root-stock to graft its many varieties on it. 

PIOSPYRUS VIRGINEANA, or PERSIMMON. (Dates), resem- 
bles prunes; are known as a commercial article, in a dry state. 

CORASUS. Cherries, of which I say are two principal kinds, 
cerasus dulsis, one of a healthy, vigorous looking growth, of brownish 
colored bark, bears black fruit, while the other, cerasus dulsis sativa, is of a 
poorer looking growth, with grayish bark, suitable for dwarfish, sour fruit, 
while the former is suitable for all the other and finer varieties. 

OLEA FUROPEA. Olive tree, oil tree, not fruit; grows in a mild 
climate. Trees grow of its own seed, in light, rich soil, and begins to bear 
with the sixth year, but not a crop to manufacture oil of until in the tenth or 
twelfth year, but serves for eating use. 

There are several kinds of olives more or less productive. Of the 
most productive ones, the others are grafted. There are two principal 
kinds: one black, the other white, and are eatable unprepared, like some 
other nuts. Olive oil is a large commercial article. 

CORNUS MAS. Dates; a stone fruit, being grown from seed, 
layers, or from cutting, in light, sandy soil on a shady spot. 

There are two kinds of fruit: one red, of long round-like fruit, the 
other, yellow, but smaller; it is a much-liked green pickle, and in a dry 
state. 

MISPELUS GERMAXICA. Mesple, is a hard seed-fruit. It is 
a small tree, of dwarfish growth. Those brings the largest fruit are pre- 
ferred. Mispelus apyrena brings stoneless fruit; some is grafted fruit. It 
can be grafted on its own root. Alson pear stock and white thorn cratagus 
alba, but only for trial. 

PUNICUM GRANATUM. Granite tree with seed stone fruit. This 



82 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



kind of trees must be on a hot place to grow large fruit and to ripen it. 
While a native of Africa, it is a beautiful ornamental and flowering plant of 
double and single scarlet flower, and also yellow; only the single ones are 
fruitful. 

The fruit is a showy, pear-shaped like, of a purple color when it is- 
ripe, of a sweetish acidus taste. Its cultivation is an easy one of seed 
and suckers on a warm position in light, sandy soil. 



Orange. 



CITRUS CHINOA, INDIA. Is a seed fruit. This kind of fruit suc- 
ceeds best in a hot climate. To raise trees of seed has to be sown in boxes, 
low pots, etc., and sunk to the rim into a fresh laid hotbed, which has tO' 
be kept moist hot; the sashes tight and covered when no sun, until the seed 
has grown up to a few inches before air and little light shall be given. 
Possible that some can be grafted by doubling the following fall early. 
The graft is surer to grow before transplanted and thus be kept until spring, 
but the temperature shall not be lower until spring than 55 degrees, which 
can be kept up by renewing the rim around the frame with horse manure, 
and a good cover on sashes. 

In the spring all these seedlings shall be potted or set, or with pots 
in a fresh laid hotbed, but with little air. Those ungrafted ones can be 
grafted by coupling through summer, but only give some air the growing 
ones; the others shall be kept separate, and to say, kept without air until 
the graft is somewhat grown, and to leave them in the same hotbed until 
the following spring, but do not let them stand, and cover all up well 
through winter, in the spring they are uncovered, raised, and all re-potted 
which need it. 

All the different kinds of oranges, lemons, can be grafted after the 
second year, and oranges grafted on wildlings grow surer than on lemon 
stalk. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 83 

This stalk grows from cuttings, and be also grafted on other 
methods. 

When oranges, lemons are planted out door the climate must be 
temperate, if it is not, all have to be planted in tubs, etc., and kept frost-free 
under roof. 

The soil for, shall not be too heavy nor light, but of a rich nature 
Rain water, manure liquid, is essential through the vegetating season. 
Don't water when not very dry, but water heavy that it runs through the 
bottom of the tub. 

Those in cases, tubs, pots, want to be changed to larger ones, the 
•old soil around the ball to be reduced and replaced to larger ones, and re- 
filled with rich, fresh soil, which will be necessary every two years. 

Oranges, lemons, are wanted all the year round, and besides, are a 
valuable, fine fruit. 

FICUS CARICA. Figs, is a fruit, full of fine seed. Its nature 
effects the same mild climate of che citrus, but light soil and a great deal of 
moisture when in vegetation. If planted out door in a climate where the 
mercury sinks under four degrees of the freezing point. Figs must be 
planted on the south side of a house, solid wall, or steep, rising hill, and 
well protected through winter. If planted in cases, tubs, pots, serves as an 
ornamental plant for the beauty of its leaves. 

It throws a great number of suckers about its heal, which are taken 
off when rooted, of which the figs are part cultivated. It is a valuable and 
noted article. 

Old plants of large size bear three or four crops the same year, on a 
side of a stone wall, with its roots in a creek of running cold water. 

When cultivated in a climate suit its nature, they produce good and 
heavy crops, and are used like other green fruit, but are more nourishable, 
dry. 



84 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Morus Nigra, Mulberry. 



Is a fruit of small seed, in shape of a big blackberry, of a blueish 
alack color. Its leaves are large, showy, likes a sunny position, protected 
agai-nst cold winds; is not particular about the soil. 

MORUS RUBRA. A kind of a reddish color and of good taste, 

with large, showy, ^lauish leaves. Morus alba brings a whitish yellow 

fruit, but small. All three kinds are easily cultivated from seed and 
cuttings. 

The last furnishes the food for silkworm, while leaves are tender, 
which are produced by plenty of moisture and trimming. 



Castanea Vesca, Sweet Chestnuts. 



Shell fruit. This is a native from the middle of Europe; also, there 
is a kind of small one grows in America. To grow sound fruit, deep, porous, 
sweet, light soil and a mild climate are necessary. 

Plant choice seed in the fall in a low box with sand and put it in a 
moist place, like in a cellar, where it won't be disturbed by mice, rats, or 
out door, where it won't be disturbed by anything; frost won't hurt it. If 
the climate is mild it will begin to take root till spring. The fruit shall be 
planted two and one-half inches deep in deep dug ground in rows eighteen 
to twenty-four inches apart, and to eight to ten inches in the row. As soon 
as the winter is over mulch lightly to keep the moisture in the ground, fresh 
mown grass is the best to mulch with. The bitter wild ones may be planted 
but have to be grafted of the sweet ones, when strong enough, the second 
year. As soon as limbs are grown about eighteen inches cut them back to 
ten or twelve inches to prevent being broken by wind; the limbs will be 
more numerous and the trees stouter, and grow to a large tree. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 85 

The uncultivated ones bring smaller fruit; only choice kinds are 
grafted of. 

The largest in fruit is the most preferable for its size, taste, and to 
preserve it, it is called limonsin. Many other varieties of early to late ones 
are known. 

JUGLANS REGIA. In general, called English nut, but some parts 
of the Swiss Alps are covered with, of which brings choice fruit. This nut 
will succeed in a moderate climate when planted before cured and dry. 

They like a light, sandy, gravelly, peat-like soil. It will pay to cul- 
tivate it if only for its well known wood. It grows best on a northerly 
position. 

CORYLUS TUBOLOSA. Hazelnut, grows wild in Europe, Amer- 
ica, etc. Of the choicest ones are cultivated, which improve through 
cultivation. Two kinds are cultivated for showy foliage, besides for its 
fruit, one with a varigated, the other with a purple foliage. It likes the 
same kind and position as the previous, and cultivated of seed, sprouts and 
layers. The nut is mostly round, hard. 

PISTACIA VERA. Native of Syria. Grows high, but as yet don't 
grow in a cold climate. It is a very showy, high-priced fruit, in size of a 
big walnut, of a yellow and violet color, very juicy and of a good flavor. 
Cultivated of seed sown in a hotbed of sandy-like soil, also of layers, and 
which don't bear are most males, and be grafted on females, which is 
done by the method of grafting in the split. 

PISTASIA LENTISCUS. Native of the Meditteranean, is also a 
dwarfish like tree; blossoms greenish stained like none; its leaves are pine 
like, long and small, with darkish droopings. Its resinos sap is gathered 
and called mastic. 



Fragaria, Strawberry. 



This is a well-known and largly cultivated fruit. The alpine is the 
original one of which many kinds have to the present been cultivated of 



86 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

through seed; the seedling from being impro\ed by practical cultivation, 
soil and climate. 

The fruit improves of seed sown of choice fruit. And even of the 
rooted runners, when transplanted into soil, position and a climate which 
suits its nature, and treatment, by which method large, choice fruit, being 
obtained, and has also improved in flavor. 

This culture likes a rich, middle-heavy soil, on a sunny, moist, low 
position, and planted two feet a part in rows and eight to ten inches apart 
in the row, on well-worked-up land. When planted early in the fall, 
it will, of good grown plants, bring as much as half a crop the following 
year. If planted in the spring, it will bring a better crop, but requires good 
care a full year, by keeping it clean of weed, and protected with a light 
straw cover, which shall be every winter, and cleared off in the spring, after 
which the ground is cleared and loosened, and the plants gently treaded 
down if (loosened) raised by frost. As soon as grass can be mown, cover 
the ground with, especially around the plants; th's cover will keep the 
moisture in the soil, while the berries need moisture before ripe; second, it 
keeps the weed from growing, the runners from taking root, which partly 
weakens the plant, and third, it keeps the fruit from being splashed. 

When found necessary, a co.it of rotten cow manure should be ap- 
plied before to put the straw cover. Tais manure shall be worked in when 
the straw cover is cleared off. 

Ripe berries should be protected against the noon sun, unless it 
will be damaged by heat. The matting around and between the main, 
plants by runners shall never be allowed, unless, crops will be greatly 
reduced; no fresh horse manure will do. The cultivation of this culture is 
an easy one, and is said to be done by seed, runners, and by the dividing 
of old plaits. 

RIBES, CURRENT. Ribes rubrum, red current. The largest of 
all varieties is in preference; the cherry current. 

The versailly is the next largest in size to red current; it oriniates 
from France. 

A third one, also red colored, from Holland; also the grape cur- 
rent, white, which is an excellent variety. They are easy to be part culti- 
vated from seed, cuttings and by dividing of the old plant, by planted about 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 87 

three feet apart in rich, medium light soil; the top covered with rotten cow 
manure, and the reducing of the old wood helps to improve the crop. 

RIBES NIGRA. Black current, is not one for general culture, even 
its berries are of the largest size. It has a peculiar, aromatic taste but is 
of a healthy nature and used as an medicament. All this current shall be 
covered through winter. 

Ribes aurea blossoms yellow, but don't pay to be cultivated for its 
berries, is used as an ornamental shrub; it brings small yellow berries. 

Ribes sauguinea is a beautiful flowering shrub, and a very ornamen- 
al one, with its red, grape-shaped flowers. They do all well by same culti- 
vation; does better in light soil than in clay, on sunny, moist position. 

RIBES UVA CR1PA. Gooseberry. This culture has been well 
improved from its seed sown and cultivated in suitable climate and soil, 
where it has improved and grows berries of good size and taste, and is in 
color from greenish white to an olive color, and is in size of a medium 
cherry, of which I remember the names of Downing's seedling, a green 
white berry; Smith's seedling, nearly of same color and size; white amber, 
a large white berry. 

Smith's English choice is of largest size, greenish color; their culti- 
vation is an easy one of seed, layers and by dividing of the plants, planted 
three feet apart in rows; they shall also be mulched and their roots pro- 
tected; tops and roots should be protected by a cover through winter. 

RUBUS IDACUS. Raspberry, of which are a good many kinds of 
the Alpine, which is the original one; has been improved of by change of 
climate and soil, through seed and sprouts. They are found from a yellow 
color to black. 

The red and yellowish colored ones grow straight. The dark colored 
are more of a dwarfish, straggly growth, more covered with prickles than 
the others, with green bark, while the other of a brown color. The latter 
takes root at its points when hanging to the ground, which are used for the 
general planting. The Philadelphia is of vigorous, straight growth, of a 
yellowish color; fruit, large, tender. 

BRANDYWINE CUTHBERT PARNEL. Turner, are upright 
growing ones, with red fruit. All of a more or less vigorous growth. 



88 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Dolittle, Gregg, New Rochelle, Mammoth Cluster, are more prickly 
and with green colored bark. 

RUBUS NIGRUM. Blackberry. Of which are as good kinds 
found in a wild and uncultivated state and hardier than some of the culti- 
vated ones. Some cultivated from seed have proven well improved and 
are also part cultivated of sprouts. All these rubus varieties grow sprouts 
on the crown of the roots, like asparagus and hop. The bearing canes die 
off the same season, which need to be cleared off and the limbs of the 
succeeding ones shortened back. Some have to be kept straight by fasten- 
ing them. Thev all require rich, light soil, low, moist position, half shady, 
and be planted in rows three to four and a half feet apart and two feet in 
the row. The tenderer kinds need protection by cover through winter. 

BERBERIS A T ULGARIS. Vinnett. Grows best wild in moist, 
sandy soil, along rivers. It is a shapely shrub with a sour foliage and bears 
an oblong, red fruit, of which vinnett wine is made as a refreshing drink. 
The roots are of yellow color and manufactured for. 



Oxicoccus Maccrocarpus. Cranberry. 



"Whoever bears in mind to meddle with cranberry culture, and with 
an intention to follow this business should be fully armed with pertaining 
to this business and culture. 

Besides, should have an income from another branch of business, or 
capital, until he will be able to realize means of the cranberry crop. 

If a cranberry meadow is well situated, well cultivated and well 
managed, is a profitable one. 

The question where and how to look for a place on which the result 
will be .a sure one to good success. Not to put up with in vain, and even 
work with as little capital and labor as possible. 

By experience look for marshy land which lies on a gradual incline, 
of a porous, rotten-like, sandy nature, with an undermoisture to about 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 89 

seven inches under the surface, but with no standing or stagnent water on 
it easy to be drained off; also, with no weed of any raw nature likely to be 
found along large rivers, marshes and seashores, and with a chance for 
plenty of soft water to be used when needed or wanted. If such land has 
to be chosen near a salt water seashore, it must be protected against salt 
water and high, cold winds. 

Could such land not be chosen without any holes and sods at all, 
the sods have to vanish to about eighteen inches under ground and the land 
be laid level like to an incline. 

A large quantity of running water to overflow such a piece of land 
to over one foot when necessary, either by a canal or branch of a never- 
failing stream, or from a dam of such a capacity, considered to hold more 
than needed when necessary, which dam has to be situated near the highest 
part of land, while at the lower part the water should drain off as fast as 
wanted. 

The land should be prepared and ready until late in the fall to have 
time to settle and be all on a level-like incline; all over equally even. 

The water is needful to overflow the plants. Set them under water 
to protect it against damage by frost by the frosty season, while a healthy 
undermoisture is the very life for this culture. 

To secure the right kind and healthy plants or vines early in the 
spring to plant can be done through winter, and by the size of the prepared 
land, the amount of plants. 

If plants have to be sent quite a distance they should be got and 
healed into moist sand on a frost-free place. If attainable in the neighbor- 
hood should only be dug at about the time of planting it. 

Great care must be taken by dividing plants that no two vines are 
left together, and not even a piece of grass root is planted with. There 
shall be two to three spears or runners on each root. Spread the runners 
well and bury them well in the ground, but be careful to have the ends, or 
tips, out of ground. 

The reason of this particular planting is, that the runners will grow 
new roots by the joints, above which will grow young, healthy vines, fit to 
mat after some time. A patch so planted will seldom fail, besides, when 
planted in the spring. The rows shall be thirty inches apart, the plants in 



9 o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

the row one foot apart. This is about the distance to give space to work 
the crop and for picking. 

Planting is done on a second method: The plants are cut to about 
six inches each with a root, and four on a hill; two standing, nearly laying 
right and left, and two in the middle of. 



The Difference in the Nature of the Cranberry Plants. 



The nature of the cranberry vine is a flexible looking one, but hard 
and short in the wood. 

A new cultivator, unacquainted with the difference of vines in nature, 
may get deceived by planting unfruitful ones ; which are the healthier look- 
ing ones, with greener leaves and of a better appearance. The fruitful ones 
are of a barren, wiry, unhealthy appearance and are found on different 
positions, and some parts of the year not easy to recognize the difference 
of. 

The plants with blossoms and berries on are very sensitive about 
frost, and are easily injured, early and late. 

The vine is of a dark green color in the spring when healthy. June, 
July is the time when blossoms appear, which are of a delicate pink color, 
slightly tinted with purple, and appears from the creepers to the spears. 
From this time protection is needed in regions where frost appears about 
this season. A frosty night may destroy the crop, which will be protected 
when set under water, and shall be cautioned until all fear of frost has dis- 
appeared. What also retardens the blossoming ? 

Vines get delicate by standing under water, therefore regions where 
few and no late frosts appear are more favorable for this culture. 

Flooding is, again, a great prevention against the cranberry worm. 
It appears to be the red spider, a parasite. Soon after it is noticed it 
spreads fast and devastates whole crops by dry weather. 

The other tn§my is a worm which pries into the b«rfy, which rets. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 9 i 

The picking time is about in October, done by hand, which saves the time 
to clean it to be fit for the market instead to rack it off and clean it with- 
out any blemish when barreled. 

There are three varieties of cranberries grown in America. The 
first is a bell shaped one called Bell cranberry, the second, Cherry, cherry 
shaped; one a larger one than this, second Cherry; fourth, Bell Bugle; 
fifth, of same but smaller. 

Oxycoccus palustris is, or was, cultivated in England and Ireland, 
but is very inferior to the American. Oxycoccus viridia is a Russian 
variety. 



Nursery or Place Where All Kinds of Fruit is Raised of Seed, 

Sprouts, Roots, etc. 



This place shall be situated where well protected against the cold, 
and damaging winds, on a position not too high and no fear to be flooded. 
With soil, most of a medium, light, substantial nature. All seed of fruit 
should be sown fresh in the fall and covered through winter with sawdust, 
or kept in moist sand until early spring, sown as early as surface gets a 
little dry. 

No other seed be sown but of ripe fruit, and be sown soon after, 
while it can be depended on its vitality; especially stone fruit, seed shall 
be sown soon after being ripe, while the stone is green, while it springs 
easier than any time after, while the stone gets hard. 

Apple, pear and quince seed be sown in rows two feet apart, two 
inches deep and from one and one-half to two inches apart in the row. 

Stone fruit seed in rows of same distance, but three inches deep, 
and the largest stone well three and a half inches deep, as the seed or stone 
of peaches, apricots, etc. Seed of cherries, plums, dates, mispels, of three 
inches deep. 



9 2 Garden, orchard and field culture. 

Shell fruit seed, like of almonds, are of easy growth, especially those 
of soft shells, and need to be sown at a same distance and depth of plum 
seed; also chestnuts at a same distance, but one-half inch deeper. 

Nuts, no matter if English or American, should not be delayed to 
be planted at three and one-half inches deep at a same distance of others; 
also, hazelnuts or filberts, but only ©ne and one-half to two inches deep. 

Seed of fruit most grown in-door or in a mild climate are partly 
specified and need to be sown in a hotbed like granate, apples, oranges, 
lemons, figs. Mulberry seed may be sown in or out door, but seed of a 
special kind of strawberries should be sown under glass, also other special 
small fruit seed. 

All seed sown in the fall shall be protected through winter with a 
cover of sawdust, as it is the best cover; manure or leaves shelter mice and 
insects. 

All this seed shall only be of the healthiest trees, which grow the 
soundest and choicest fruit. 



Transplanting of Seedlings. 



All seedlings of fruit trees may be that far and strong enough grown 
to be planted on another part of the nursery at twelve to fifteen inches 
apart in the row, but the rows at three feet distance, with the stock-root 
cut off, after which the quantity of fibers will increase. All the sickly, 
crippled-like ones shall be left out as the handling of them would be 
useless. 

All fruit seedlings, when strong enough grown, shall be planted at 
the place where they shall bear. 

Seedlings of imported seed will be weaker in growth, and sown 
months later, even of fresh seed of the same season, while seed has to be 
naturally dried before packed. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 93 



Grafting, Preparing. 



This can be done on different methods. The best time for, is when 
the sap is beginning to circulate, or is in full circulation. 

If early fruit is to be grafted on late root stock, in which the circu- 
lation of sap is later, the scions have to be cut far earlier and stuck in moist 
sand on a cool place until the sap in the root to be grafted is in fair 
circulation. 

These scions are used by side or grafting in the split. Side and split 
grafting be applied to trees, stock-root, on which grafts have failed, by 
budding, doubling, coupling, and has grown too stout to reapply the same 
methods again. 

There are different methods of grafting, of which to graft in the split 
is the commonest, and can be applied to apple, cherry, pear, plum trees. 
Young trees have to be cut off to one foot above ground and lower, which 
stump shall be split at the thicker side of the middle as far as the scion, 
When cut on both sides wedge-like, can be fitted into the split even with 
bark to bark, the split held open with a wooden wedge, which is carefully 
withdrawn when the scions are rightly placed, with two buds on them. 
The split be covered immediately with cold or hot grafting wax to keep air 
and the wet off. The outer bark on scions to fit by grafting. Stone fruit 
has to be nearly even with the inner bark on the stump. The same opera- 
tion can be applied at the crown of strong grown trees which have just 
begun to bear, but unsuitable fruit. When grafting is done at the crown, a 
tree bears sooner. 

SIDE GRAFTING. The young tree, or limbs on the crown, be 
cut off like the first. The scion is trimmed to ihe thickness of the bark on 
the limb, with a saddle to rest on the cut; a piece of bark is cut, which 
space the cut at the scion shall exactly fit and fill, which shall be gently 
and fairly tied with a striD of muslin, etc. 

A scion can be cut to slip between bark and wood, that bark will fit 
on bark filled out with cold wax, and tied with a strip of muslin; thirdly: a 
scion to be cut to a sharp edge from both sides to a point, and be let fitted 



94 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

into the wood part under or inside the bark, well filled with cold wax and 
bandaged with a strip of muslin. 

GRAFTING BY DOUBLING, can be done to stock-root, yet too 
small to be budded by a diagonal, clean through cut on the stock-root and 
at the scion of exactly the same size, that both fits, bark on bark, gently, 
exactly and solidly tied with muslin. 

GRAFTING BY COUPLING. The root part be cut off a few 
inches above ground and sharply cut to wedge from both sided to die mid- 
dle, at length on both sides on equally cut to a sharp edge; the scion to be 
of exactly the same size, and cut so as to fit over the wedge, bark on bark, 
and also tied like the one before. Mucilage should be used by every graft. 

GRAFTING BY BUDDING. Budding is a general method of 
grafting, which can be done as soon as the sap is in a fair circulation, which 
is the time in the spring when buds fairly swell; what is called grafting on 
the vitable, or growing eye; also on the unvitible, or sleeping eye, 
and be operated in July, August, September, when favorable, moist 
weather that the sap is in fair circulation, and can be done from the top of 
the root to the crown, which is a great advantage to low budding, while a 
tree of such a size for sooner will bear. 

When ready to operate, make sure that the sap is up in the graft 
roots; the bark loosens easily from the wood than begin with the earliest 
fruit; apricots, peaches, plums, or all which the buds swells first are best. 

If the scions are a distance from the place of the graft roots, and 
several has to be cut at one time, they have to be put in water, moist sand, 
be stuck into fruit or potatoes on quite a shady place; but avoid to do it 
when rainy or wet, and when very hot and dry. It won't hurt to water the 
stock-root well a day or two before, when the ground, being, and is, dry, 
by which they get cleaned and refreshed; graft them on the smoothest spot, 
mostly on the east side; the leaf of the bud to be half reduced only. The 
buds on the scions must be well chosen, only the middle ones on the twig 
be used, which proves the best for fruit, and most vitable ones and well 
developed. 

Well developed scions can safely be sent from or to a distance by 
sticking them into cucumbers, potatoes, fruit. 

Budding has to be done with a small budding-knife, which are made 
for this purpose, and be as sharp as the sharpest razor. With which to cut 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 95 

one of the good buds first from the upper side about half an inch above 
the bud, down to a point in length of about one inch, or in size and shape 
of a steel pen, and not thicker or more than the bark, on which the bud 
shall be a little above the middle, with the full, or perfect, bud even with 
the bark on the inside, but no more. If any wood should adhere, stick to 
the bark, cleaned it peeled off carefully on your thumb, then cut the point 
above the eye half an inch square off on your thumb. If this is ready, as 
specified, the bark is not damaged, the bud is perfect, with a grain in it, 
which is the only life, hold it by the point between the lips until the incision 
in the form of T is made just through the bark, which, when loosened to 
the left and right wiih the back point of your budding-knife, hold it 
open with it and shape the bud under to fit the cut well, the bud in the mid- 
dle of the cut. Press the bark lightly over, then begin to tie with woolen 
yarn, thin inner rind of linn tree bark, or with narrow strip of light muslin, 
etc; lay the tie on the back of the bud and bring it around to the front 
under it, tie gently the bark over above the bud solid, the second, and if 
necessary, above it and then down until all is covered to keep the air off. 

As soon as that bud is adhered, has begun to grow, the tie shall be a 
little loosened and taken up when it is grown well to the root part and about 
an inch long. If grown to two inches or a little longer, the wild part or 
the part above it, which is to be stuck by the root to protect the young 
shank or grrft. This cut has to be as clean and closely done as possible to 
over-grow easily in a short time. The incision should be made as near the 
root as can be; the eye must be seen free of the bandage; quite soft graft 
ing wax could be used instead of bandage, which would tighten and hold as 
long as need it. This is the only and best method to graft almond, apri- 
cots, peaches, while most all other fruit, which needs to be budded, is done 
. 011 this method. 

Another method of grafting I mention, which can be called coupling. 
It resembles side or grafting in the bark. This is done without cutting or 
parting the scion from the limb or fee. Plant graft-roots near a tree of 
which to graft; the next scion to a graft, or stock-root, is cut one-half to 
three-quarters of an inch, smooth diagonal to a point, the point to be cut 
one-quarter of an inch from the other side; a cut into the root stock is 
made so that the point of the scion fits even, and a cut be made that the 
upper pare of the scion tits also even with 'the bark on the stock-root; all be 
well tied with rubber or other ties. When adhered and growing, the sci«n 



96 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

is severed from the limb at a suitable place. As well as the part above the 
graft is like by the budding method. 

The time to graft fruit trees by this method is when the scions have 
grown to perfection, which is late in the spring. Cherries are generally 
grafted on the sleeping eye, or by the second rise of the sap. 

The preparation by cutting of fruit trees to raise standard trees of 
has as yet been less a success than from seed of choice fruit, but can be 
laid to a success when done on a different method. 

Trees can be raised from cuttings on apple, pear, quince, cherry, 
etc., on the trees. 

Limbs on many trees hanging to the ground of which cuttings can 
be made by laying fine wire solid around at the beginning of the last year's 
growth, early in the spring. If the wire has nearly disappeared by the 
swelling of the bark, will easily take root when put on a close, propogating 
bed. 

Layers can be easier produced by making layers, that is, hook this 
wire twig about one inch under very light soil, which, when kept moist, 
will root in a short time, of which any number of trees can be raised and 
be called standard ones. 

Propogating, grafting, can be done on-many other different methods 
which I find now useless to mention. I only have specified some of the 
commonest and general ones. 

Numbers of experiments being made in grafting by crossing nature 
to raise fruit on judicious trees and shrubs, like apple on sycamores, or 
acer platanus, or ashes or sarbus anebaria, alpina. 

Velved colored fruit, like apple, has grown on those trees, but very 
few and tasteless. 

Pears on whitethorn and ashes, which has not done better on white- 
thorn than on ashes, or the apple on ashes. 

Grapes, being tried on nut trees, regia juglans, to raise grapes con- 
taining oil, but has failed altogether. 

Apples on pears, and pears on apples, all with unsatisfactory results. 

Grafts of dwarf fruit grafted on vigorous-growing, judicial vines and 
shrubs, had not proven any better, 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 97 

Grafts of dwarfish fruit trees put on strong-growing ones proved of 
too slow growth. 

Therefore, graftroots shall be grown from sound, choice fruit, from 
strong, heathy trees to graft fruit on of same in variety. 

The time of grafting depends greatly on the climate for sooner or 
later, and for success, also on favorable atmospheric changes. Shady. 
moist, warm weather is best for grafting; rain or wet is to be avoided. 



Pruning Trees in the Nursery, and on the Place of Bearing, 



Seedlings which have been transplanted where they shall be graftecF- 
should be examined before fit to be grafted. 

The lowest eyes should be rubed out, and in case some sprouts be ■ 
already grown, about one foot above ground, they shall be cut off, to give 
enough room to bud them, or be smooth and clean enough for doubling, as 
coupling, as a smooth surface is needed of not less than about two feet 
from the ground. 

If any of the seedlings grow with larger, heavier leaves there would be- 
an indication for good fruit without to graft them, and should be left un- 
grafted. These be trimmed up according to nature as dwarfs, half-dwarfs.. 
or high growing ones to a height where a crown is to be formed, for which ■. 
the center, or head, has tobecut off. If such are strong enough with a crown 
on to be grafted, and grow when grafted, is a double advantage about its 
bearing to low grafted ones. If any of the ungrafted ones bear good fruit 
it will be a good, hard, standard tree and a general bearer. The blossoms: 
on seedlings are less delicate than on others and bring sounder fruit. 

The low, budded ones, when the wild top is cut smoothly off above 
the graft-bud, shall be treated alike in trimming, to form a crown on them ~ 
but if a tree should be very tender and weak, trim the shoots below the 
crown only halfback, by which will stouten them in growth. 



98 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

If apples are grafted on roots grown from strong grown trees, they 
want to be trimmed to form a high crown, for which the young graft is 
drained to a certain height before it is cut off to form the crown. 

The second highest are half dwarf like, grown of pepins, are 
treated alike for a second height, and the crown on dwarf ones be formed 
right above where budded. The crown be formed of four or five limbs, 
and when on the place to bear it should be treated in rubbing out buds 
and by trimming, that the crown on the south side be far heavier than on 
the north, and be clear on the inside of limbs,, near one foot long. The 
small ones on large ones are required as leaders of the sap to keep the tree 
sound. No tree shall be allowed to be much open on the top, or around 
it, and be deprived of low, small limbs, except towards noon to protect 
trunk and big limbs against the hot sun. 

A yearly trimming to keep trees free of suckers at the heal of water 
sprouts, and the crossing of limbs; also, to reduce such limbs which would 
take advantage of the others, to keep trees in an equal shape. 

TRIM APPLE TREES FOR GENERAL CROP TO SUCCESS. 
Trim half the one year's growth back to three or four eyes; this will some- 
what retard the blossoming against the untrimmed ones, which maybe 
damaged by frost, cold rain; the others will bring some fruit. 

Seed fruit, as apples, pears, quinces, bear fruit on old wood, while 
stone fruit grows on the previous year's growth. 

Never let the top of a tree grow to be over-proportioned to the 
root, unless there is, only every few years, a heavy crop, for which trees 
need to rest. 

The nature of pear trees is different to apple. Sow seed from a 
good kind of wild pears; may be sown in the fall in sandy-like soil, pro- 
tected with sawdust through winter, but better preserve it in moist sand 
until spring. When early sown need hardly be two inches deep. 

When up, no side growth be allowed to grow up smoothly, be also 
grafted low by budding. If late fruit be grafted on stock-root grown of 
seed, from fruit of a strong, vigorous nature, let the graft grow to a certain 
height before cut off to form a crown. Those grafted on seedlings or cut- 
t'.ngs of quinces are of dwarfish nature, and will suit well for dwarf-like fruit, 
and shall be treated in trimming according to nature. Pear tree roots are 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 99 

of a pivoin nature, and the whole tree, more or less. Therefore, it requires 
to be planted in mild, sweet, sandy-like soil, drainable by nature. 

Its future treatment as to bearing, depends greatly on the part of 
trimming, and does only any good on special parts, when pear trees are 
planted in partly rich, not wettish soil. 

The trimming of pear trees is a more particular one than by apples. 
Dwarf trees need a thorough short trimming early every spring, which is 
in general neglected, but shall regularly be done for production and the 
shape of the tree. The cleaning and mulching of through the hot season 
with young grass. 

The high growing ones need only the attention to keep them in 
shape, mulching and cleaning; not allow any water sprouts nor suckers at 
the heal. 

APRICOTS. The root of apricot tree is of pivoin-like nature. 
The seed, as already said, should be sown soon after the fruit is ripe, of 
choice fruit, in same kind of soil as for pears, in a sunny position. Some 
seed may be sown single where a tree shall grow up to bear, others in rows, 
treated like pears; some may be left ungrafted, which probably will bear 
good fruit, if not, can be grafted after by budding them at the crown, others 
budded with choice fruit; stock-root of almonds, prunes, may be used for. 
The latter is preferred to bud peach apricot on them. 

Keep them by trimming at a dwarfish, stout growth, to prevent its 
over-bearing and mostly small fruit, which is generally of poor taste while 
partly unripe. There are many kinds of apricots, but the larger one is in 
preference. The trimming to be done quite early in the spring, while they 
blossom very early and easy be damaged by frost, which should be pre- 
vented by smoking. 

ALMOND. When the seed of almond has grown up for fruit, which 
only can be expected in a mild climate, it shall be treated in trimming as a 
tree of a half dwarfish or medium height. 

They bear different kinds of fruit, sweet and bitter on the same tree, 
as, sweet in the sun and bitter in the shade. Those with small foliage 
bring most, small fruit with a hard shell, while those with the large foliage 
generally produce good, large fruit with soft shell. The stock-root be also 
used to bud peaches on them. The root is of a very pivoin nature. 



ioo GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Deep, loose, rich, sandy-like soil for its nature, and to produce- 
large, sweet fruit, which grows on the young wood. One, called peach 
almond, bears the most difference in fruit, from small to large, from bitter 
to sweet, from soft to hard shelled nuts. The one year's growth shall be 
trimmed half the length back early every spring. 

PEACHES. The soil for peaches shall be a deep, light, substantial, 
one. If seed of the very choicest is sown, after some of them bring also 
choice fruit, the indications fur are a vigorous growth, big buds, heavy 
foliage. 

These trees should be trimmed clean up to two to four feet where it. 
shall be topped to form a crown of a few branches, others may be budded 
low. When the graft-bud has begun to grow loosen the bandage, of which 
the tree be freed as soon as a fair growth is noticed, and the wild part be 
cut off above the graft shoot. 

It is hardly necessary to grow graft-root to graft peaches on it than 
of its own, unless almonds, apricots, or if to graft on still harder stock-root 
seedlings of a good kind of plums be used for. 

There are four principal kinds of peaches, a free-stone, one with a 
raw, velvety skin, the other of the free-stone is of yellowish color with a- 
smooth skin. 

The third is the cling-stone, with a purplish, raw, velvety skin; the 
fourth, also a cling-stone, with a smooth, greenish, yellow skin, which 
adheres, or sticks, to one side of the stone. 

The pruning of peach trees is as necessary as the trimming of grape 
vines, and especially when not planted in soil which does not altogether 
suit its nature. 

If not kept in an upright, part close shape, by trimming, it will grow 
out of shape; while its growth is a vigorous one, and if not trimmed, it 
cannot (weep) push off the surplus of the gummy sap, of which can't 
descend as it should; the tree is apt to get sick, if this surplus sap don't 
descend, which is gummy, (will) has to decay on some part under the bark, 
which has to decay also, if it can't find its way through the bark. Such a 
tree will only last a few years, while the worms ot the sap are part cause. 
When trimmed, will keep healthier for years; it will not over-bear, but bear 
larger fruit and more regular, if protected. It brings the fruit on the one 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 101 

year, or young shoots which have to be trimmed good half of the length 
back early every spring. 

PRUNES. A prune tree is not particular about soil if only light 
and good warm, and drainable. The roots grow deep to nourish the tree. 

The stock-root on which plums be grafted shall be prepared a few 
days before, and should be well watered a few days before budded, also, by 
transplanting. It grows its fruit of the young wood, which shall also be 
trimmed back to four or five eyes every spring early, white it proves more 
gummy than peach trees. It grows untrimmed very soon out of shape, 
when planted in heavy, wet soil, in which they often will not last long. 
Showy, large fruit is obtained through improving it. 

CHERRIES. Of which there are two to three principal kinds. 
TThe one which brings the largest, and a sweet fruit, grows on a tree whose 
t>ark is of a brown, good looking color, of a vigorous growth, and found in 
the forests of Europe, of a great height with black fruit called the guigiser. 

The stock-roots are well suited to graft the best fruit on them. The 
trees grow strong to a pyramidial shape. Those of a grayish colored bark 
are stouter in growth and bear red and small brown fruit of a sour and 
bitter taste, which are less gummus and do to graft sour cherry on it. 

A third kind, of white reddish colored fruit, is in preference for the 
•quality of fruit, and such like variety are often grafted in the seedling of, 
which need to be prepared before grafting, like other seedlings. 

The grafting of plums and cherries is generally done on the sleeping 
■eye in late summer. 

Cherry trees do not need but very little trimming, which is against 
their nature, especially when in sap or vegetation. 

Figs need but to be trimmed to improve the fruit, also, to shorten 
and to thin out the many limbs, unless they are grafted, which be by a 
.general root, trimmed back to the fourth or fifth eye. 

Mulberry trees are trimmed to improve the fruit, by half-trimming 
tack the vigorous shoots, and form the shape of the tree. 

Sweet chestnut has to be trimmed back two or three times, to pre- 
vent them from breaking by high wind, and also, to give them good shape. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



The Planting. 



To plant trees in che fall is an advantage when the ground is dry, 
but when wet, not before spring. 

To plant an orchard of apple trees, the toughest in nature of late 
fruit should be planted on the outside, the most valuable, earliest kinds, on 
the inside, and should be planted on a northern-like slope, not nearer than 
forty feet apart each way, and strictly in line (rows) east, west, north and 
south, and on cross lines. Good sized holes dug about two weeks before 
planting is done, for which under and around it nothing but mellowy soil 
is used; between the roots well filled with about the same height as they 
stood, and the top gently worked medium, solid with an oval filling around 
it. 

When on an exposed place, the trees should be planted standing to- 
wards the south, and south-west winds, one foot of the perpendicular line 
being with the grafted side pointing north-east. 

Pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, plums shall be planted by a same 
regie, but only about thirty feet distance, into such soil as specified, to suit 
their nature, on north-east, south-east and south side, according to more 
or less early varieties and nature. 

Trees planted late in the spring, in dry-like soil, shall be well water- 
ed down, without to tread on it; and protected against swaying by wind; 
also, well mulched with grass through summer, with well loosened soil 
under. 

L/VBELS. A seed, plants, trees to be labeled with a number or full 
name on the label with unfairable ink; when by a number, it shall be 
specified in a book for that purpose. 

Also all the seedlings when transplanted for graft-roots, by grafting 
all kinds of fruit grafted without fail. 

The label, or stick, shall be white pine wood, split into pieces fifteen 
to eighteen inches long, half inch thick, and two to two and a half wide, 
smooth cut and white painted. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 103 



Eleventh ZF^irt. 



Wounded, Sick Trees. 



Fractures and other causes to sickness on trees, vines, etc. 

A cultivator can not be too careful to prevent causes which may- 
cause sickness, and too feeble to battle against all, besides to ward off the 
fiends of plants and trees. 

Fractures happen to trees by wind, part when insufficiently trimmed,, 
when overloaded with fruit, by too close plowing and harrowing, by which 
damage is done under and above ground, by stock, by a very cold snap to 
forky trees, by a sudden thawing of the sun's heat when hard frozen ; also 
by rabbits while the tree is still that small that rabbits can peel it, which 
fracture is as bad as any other and worse when carved into the wood. 
When peeled all around the tree has to die right after the first circularion 
of the sap, while it can not descend, on account of the fracture by which it 
is stopped. The sap rises through the inside of the tree and has to descend 
through the bark. Minor fractures cared for right after, trimmed and cov- 
ered with salve, may be cured, not leaving a fracture behind. Other frac- 
tures mentioned may be treated alike unless by broken limbs, which have to 
be cut off as far as damaged, the other limbs have also to be cut near alike 
if the tree shall become equally shaped again. 

If that rabbit-fracture is left uncured it will be as long as the tree 
stands, which will be only a few years when far enough rotted through this 
cause. The same will happen to trees frozen, the bark torn from the wood 
through fast thawing of the morning sun's heat if not mended early the 
same spring. 

This torn bark will rot, under which worms grow up and bore 
into the tree of which the tree will rot fast until blown down. 

Are these worms apple, or tree borers? 



:*o 4 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



ORGANIC SICKNESS. Sleet is one of the organic causes to sick- 
ness of trees, vines, etc., which is never formed unless an object is that hard 

frozen that any kind of moisture will freeze on it and will not damage any 
trees, vines, etc., without a sudden thawing by the sun's heat, which shines 
through the ice like through an avorn glass by which the inner bark gets 

orn from the wood. This bark has become inactive and prevents the de- 
scending sap from its natural course, thickens there, of which the outer bark 
gets black and decays. This so damaged part of the tree or the whole is 
lost. 

PLETORA. is caused on some parts of trees by too much sap, 
accumulated through rich soil and of the other part cut off, such an over- 
circulation will partly stop and thicken, and will be the same result as from 
sleet, frost, etc., if such trees are not bled about the crown by cutting 
through the bark. 

Such a tree should be equally trimmed off, and the rich soil changed 
if or poor until mended. 

GANGRAENA. Is also an over-circulation in sap, caused of wet, 

too rich soil, manure around or near roots. If a tree cannot absorb it, part 

will stop and thicken on some parts of the tree if not bled, unless, the bark 

will burst at some places. No bad result will happen to seed-fruit trees by 

.bleeding. 

FLUXUS GUMMOSUS. This is effected by a quantity of some 
sour stuff, which happens become mixed in a shape like gum, with the 
natural sap of the tree, which happens to stone fruit trees, which will die 
after this gum-like sap has bursted through the bark. 

The cause of it is wet, rich soil, manure or of too poor, gravely, dry 
soil; also, from loosening the foliage through insects or other causes; if the 
flaw of a gummus sap be caused of a fracture, it can be stopped by trim- 
ming the fractured part, and by covering it with salve. 

GARCIOMA. Is thickening and rottening of sap, caused of fracture 
and rot on the roots, frost, manure, of a hot nature, of iron, and other un- 
suitable soil. This happens by apple and nut trees. Trees are generally 
lost by this cause. 

TABES. Weakness. This is caused by an unsuitable climate, soil, 
p osition, drought, frost, twisting, swaying, breaking by wind, and parasite 
<c auses. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 105 

CRISPATIO FOLIORUN. Is the curling of foliage, caused gener- 
ally in the spring, when hot days after cold nights, or a great change in 
temperature, which stops perspiration, and causes lameness; when noticed 
or seen in time, a strong over watering, washing, loosening up the soil, also 
by trimming of the points will help and effect a new circulation in the sap. 

LETHARGIA is a weak and retarded growth, as the cause may be 
by improperly planted trees in dry, lumpy soil, not filled around and be- 
tween the roots, also when planted in too wet soil or too much wetted and 
too solidly worked down. 

PARAYLSIS is nearly of same nature; if any trees, plants, etc., are 
planted with and in stuff which is against the natu.te, without any substance 
like out of cellars, old wall, metallic or poisoned earth; such trees and plants 
can't grow, but die. 

ALBIGO. Looks like a fine, white mould on the foliage, covered 
with or raucar ervsiphe, which is most an atmospheric cause, or a great 
change in temperature. 

If trees, plants are only partly befallen of this unnatural sweat 
which shows sickness, may be cured by an over-sprinkling, morning and 
evening. 

RUBIGO. Is caused by a part stopage of perspiration through 
some atmospheric changes; it is of a black color, while the previous, or 
white, it is an unnatural black sweat shows a sickness in the trees, plants, 
it begins at the tenderest part of the foliage; all such trees, plants befallen 
with, are of a very unhealthy nature, and may die off; it is a kind of rust, 
exitating perspiration, which is like a parasite. 

HAMORHAGIA. Trees, plants die of bleeding; they begin to grow 
in spring, but bleed to death by the blossoms and leaves, which drop at 
that time; the sap is driven first through bark, which proves the last stage 
ot life. 

DEFORMATION at trees, plants is everywhere to be seen, happens 
through any cause or neglect. Tetraneura pruni, also called pocket louce, 
which pierces into the fruit bud, while the blossom 011 plum tree and lays 
the eggs in it, which wound soon closes by the tast growth of the fruit, 
which insect, when hatched out, sucks all the sugary substance of the truit, 
by which the fruit gets deformed, which grows with the growing family in 
it, until fullgrown, by which the plum crop is entirely destroyed; if this 



io6 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

insect which is also found in the blistered leaves is picked off and destroyed, 
and all the dropped fruit, there would be less the cause. 

But this is seldom done. Few cultivators may know it, but do not 
take time to do it to save such an excellent crop. It only would show im- 
portant, when a good crop could be harvested. 

Such blisters or pockets are found on a number of different kinds of 
trees, plants in which packets millions of insects grow only on a small tree 
or shrub, without any notice is taken of. 

Wounds on trees prove often as useful as deadly, when neglected to 
mend them by trimming and said wounds fairly covered with a salve. There 
are trees which grow to a big size, but bear not before accidently wounded 
or on purpose by ringing which is done with a sharp hook knife, with which 
one half inch wide (rind) bark is cut out to the wood, but not into, just above 
the crown all around the limbs at the very time, trees are in blossom, 
if not before a few days. 

This has an effect of a slower descending of the sap, through which 
fruitbuds will be formed and effect the tree to bear. 

Otherwise parts of trees and whole trees can be made to bear by 
tieing cords, etc., near to the ends of the limbs and bend them without 
breaking to pegs or weights on the ground, to hinder the sap from fast 
circulation. 

SUFFOCATION can be named organic sickness. A small tree, 
shrub, etc., planted under higher trees or on places, where they are devoid 
of natural need to a fair growth, like of dew. rain, free circulation of air, 
gets sick if not transplanted on a free, open place and well cleaned and if 
necessary, trimmed back. 

Suffocation happens to seed sown to deep ; to young crop covered 
with earth or otherwise washed under, also trees, vines, plants, etc., suffer 
when covered with soot, cinderdust and other like causes may suffocate, if 
not released for a course of time, especially when dry hot weather. 

ANASARCA. Rot, through wet by too much watering or rain. 
Wherever solid ground causes the water to stand, soft vegetation, like vege- 
table, grain, etc., can not bear it, and rot. Harder vegetation, when stand- 
ing too long in such water which gets stagnent the root begins and will rot. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 107 

The same causes the foliage to turn yellow or spotted colored which 
drops to decay, what happens through many other causes, which can be 
called organic ones, and never will be known if unobserved and left unex- 
amined, but can be avoided in a great many cases, if cultivation is executed 
by directions. 

MILLIGO is an exodation of sweat which belays the upper part of 
the foliage which is part sweet sticky of a clear, yellow color much liked by 
ants and plantlice. If not soon often washed off by a heavy rain, it will 
ferment on the leaves and form a kind of mould and seems to be alive and 
stops perspiration. The cause of this can be recognized by a sudden tem- 
perature a hot day follows a cool night the sap can be seen running from 
the wounds into the pores. 

TYPANITIS is the cause of too fat, wet soil which effects a sickly de- 
formation on dicotyledones or lapping leaf-plants like by onions. This too 
wet, rich soil effects a too fast growth in some plants by which some parts 
grow together or fiat or unshaped. By fruit trees such a fast growth which 
shoots are covered with imperfect, unriDe buds which could not come to a 
perfection by too a fast growth through the strong force of sap and so been 
growing in one instead to more shoots. 

Many trees, vines, shrubs, plants are visited by insects while sick, 
which helps to a faster destruction, while they will not trouble any healthy 
ones. 

APHIS. Plantlice. Belays shoots, leaves, and each plant seems to 
be troubled with a different species of the lice family. The worst damag- 
ing and commonest are Aphis pruni, is greenish gay, white powdered 
trouble plum trees. 

APHIS CERASI, is of dark brown color, on top redish at the under 
side. 

APHIS RIBES, at currants, gooseberry is of gray green color. 

APHIS MALI, is grayish green, with blue wings. 

APHIS BRASSIyEA, is of green color with a half yellow bieast white 
powdered, be found on the under side of cabbage leaves. 

APHIS PERSL'E, Aphis apricoty, are of a black color. These plant 
lice are on other trees, vines, shrub-plants found when in vegetation, are 
somewhat different in size and of all colors. They mutiply very fast, and 
are more destructive, as small as they are, than any one knows or may be- 
lieve, because one family breeds 16 to 20 generations in one season. 



io8 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

It is difficult to keep it off or destroy it. The remedy used for is dust 
of tobacco, sulphur, but which proves to be too costly for the purpose. Water 
of boiled potato peelings, tobacco stems, fox glove leaves, boiled and blue 
stone (vitriol) soluted in the strained of the above with which the plants 
shall be well sprinkled. The same species of the Aphis family troubles 
greenhouse plants which are made to drop off from the plants by a strong 
tobacco smoke at night, swept off and burned. 

THE ANTS, formica, greenfly, Hemirabia perla a cochenilla, some 
eat wasps and kill many of them. 

THE APHIS COCCUS are as damaging to trees and shrubs as the 
previous. They stick to the bark of which they suck the substance; the same 
species of nearly the same color of the bark are unnoticed. They are 
unmovable by eating, breeding, hatching. The young ones occupy the 
covers of the old, dead ones until they are spread over plants. It sticks to 
apricots, peaches, grapevines, etc. Orange trees. Coccus Hesperidum, 
Coccus vittis, is of a brown marble color; when old, dark brown and lays 
eggs in white wool and vines and apricot trees. The one on peaches is 
like the one on oranges ; also troubles a great many other in and out door 
plants. 

THE COCCUS CACTI is cultivated on Cacti Opuntica in South 
America which is a much wanted commercial article. 

A hot or a cold climate seems to make no difference with them. The 
remedy to destroy them is a solution of tobacco, with black-oil soap and 
strong vinegar, well wetted and scaped off with a strong brush, after which 
the scraped parts are to be washed off with clean water. Where no scraping 
can be done to rub well with a fatty skin of bacon. 

Another remedy has been tried to success, which is of black soap, 
saluted in strained water of boiled wild camamils, and strong vinegar, with 
which all vegetation befallen with plant lice and many other insects, be 
-watered. 

FORMICA. Ants, damage some vegetation by dry weather by 
loosening the ground, undermining sod, roots of trees, plants, etc., but do 
the most damage in hotbeds by the undermining of young plants, and also 
damage ripe and even half ripe fruit. By any means, they can't be stopped 
from getting into houses, where they spread where any eatables are placed. 
If they are prevented to pass on one place they soon find another. They 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 109 

dislike dead and stinking fish, aromatic stinking herbs, camphor, turpentine r 
etc. When they pass into houses wash floors, mats, etc., with strong salt- 
water; put near their place of entering a pot with honey water poisened 
with white arsenic, which they like and be poisoned; sweetened tar, thick 
molasses, to which they will stick; also, old ham bones, which they like,, 
accumulate on it and be killed with boiling water or fire. 

To kill them out of door tie sweetened tar band around trees to 
which they will stick. Where they are in pits, in or on the ground, not 
near roots of trees, burn them with fire, fresh lime slaked on them, with a 
strong solution of salt and sulphur. When under or near tree roots banish 
them with stinking stuff, dead fish, clams, with camphor, turpentine, stone 
oil on rags. 

There are many kinds of ants, from the very small red one in houses 
to big black horse ant, also some with wings, which fly by hot weather 
and are dangerous. 

ONISCUS ASELLUS. It is a kind of a worm with seven pair of 
feet, of dark gray color, with a stinking odor; often found numerous 
in hotbeds. They like to live on warm, moist places and do damage to 
soft skinned, juicy fruit and tender, young plants. 

ONISCUS AMADILLO. Is of a dark blue color; are poisonous, 
while they live partly off poisonous juice, sap, and coil when alarmed. 

Damage some fruit, vegetables, and can be caught in a ball of moist 
moss, hollow bones, hollow pig feet toes, cucumber, into which they 
shelter and be killed. 

JULIUS THERESTINS. Gallfly, is of worm shape, with ten pairs 
of feet, of a yellow steel-like color, which is found anywhere coiled, laying 
quite useless; aroused, is partly of a poisonous nature, but is never found 
in numbers. Damages plants, roots and leaves, also some fruit. When 
noticed where plants be damaged of, water the spot with a bucket or can 
full of water, mixed with two big spoonsful of vitriol, which brings them on 
the surface. 

SCOLOPANDRA. Is of a long, yellow, brown body. The scola- 
pandra electrica with about sixty pair of feet, moves quick when aroused. 
It is found anywhere, under bark, stone, manure, moist earth, rotten wood, 



no GARDEN. ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

also in damaged fruit, flowers, by which fatal accidents happened to persons, 
smells on flowers, being bitten on the nose, which is a poisonous bite, 
also crept through noses into the brain. They are also killed with vitrioled 
water. 

FORKICULA ONLICULARIA. Earling, is half bug, half worm. 
It does great damage to ripe fruit, especially to plums, peaches, apricots 
and some pears, also destroys a great deal of seed by eating all th-e inside 
of flowers. Shelters in dark, moist places. They can be caught in hollow 
bones, wood, or in anything that is loose and hollow into which they creep, 
especially, when flavored with aromatic oils. 

LUMBRICUS TERRESTRIS. Worms which are found in ma- 
nure, moist earth, under stone, wood, etc. Destroys mostly young plants, 
which they undermine and pull into the holes, exode soil where fat, shady, 
moist. They ruin and dislocate roots and cover with their half poisonous 
exodation, of which plants sicken and die. The best and cheapest remedy 
is to mix the ground by digging with air slaked lime, or use limewater, soot, 
cinders, water of boiied nuts, leaves and shells. 

LIMAX AGRESTIS. Snail, is about one inch long, of a reddish 
gray, white gray, and of a yellowish gray color, some are striped of such 
colors. They damage plants and fruit spring and fall, by moist weather, 
especially on shady, moist places. Are found under stones, wood, etc.; 
they are, in general, found near wells, cellars, and in hotbeds on the lower 
side inside where they often do much damage. 

The best known remedies are: Sow before sunrise and after sunset 
fine, unslaked lime, cinders, salt, soot, the refuse of cleaned flax, etc.; in a 
climate where numberless are found coeder them with fine chopped vege- 
table and fruit, where they are easily killed with vitriol water, fresh lime. 



May Beetle. 



MELALANTHA MAJALIS. There are three kinds of this known 
colored bug, which some years in some [places are very troublesome and 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. in 

destroy the foliage on fruit and forest trees, also on plants, shrubs, vines. It is a well 

known bug, appears in the spring as soon as the trees are green. The best remedy is to 
shake it off the trees, etc., early in the morning before any fly off, pick them up aud kill 
with boiling water. 

The larves of are also very damaging almost to any kind of crop by eating of roots, 
on grain fields, meadows, vegetables, often does much damage to potatoes. They are about 
one and one-half inch long, of a white yellowish color, with partly a black head, and is 
found everywhere in manure. 

MELOLANTHA SOLST1TIALIS, smaller in size, the larve also smaller, and 
damage more other roots of plants or vegetation, roots on poplar trees and willow than 
does damage. 

MEJLOLANTA H ARTICOTA. This bug is only about one-half inch long, of a red- 
dish brown color, which is some years swarming and does a great deal of damage to fruii and 
other trees and to vegetables also. The larve lives on roots of perennial plants, also on 
clover, lucern and other grass root. The bug appears later than the other, is also shaked 
off the trees, plants, picked up and burned. The worms will remain under the ground four 
to five years before their transformation to a bug. 

HALTICA OLERACEA. Springer, which is of a bright green bluish color, small 
, build, with a kind of spring feet with which it gets very lively, when annoyed, especially 
when sunny, dry. They can be prevented with moisture and shade, if very troublesome 
lay or stick tarred boards, rags on sticks and brushes between the rows of plants to which 
they will stick, also sow over fresh sown seed pulverized chicken, pigeon manure, lime or 
tobacco dust. 



Mole, Cricket. 



GRILLIATALPA VULGARIS. This is a big-winged worm, in shape of a bug o f 
dark brown color, over one inch long, which keeps mostly under ground, undermine it and 
eats the roots of plants through they happen to meet by traveling; wherever seen, the 
ground be undermined by fiatering plants, work the ground solid, to find out where they 
are, when aal where indications of newly damaged plants are seen flatering. 



ii2 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Then apply this remedy: two parts coal tar, one of terpentine, with which a bottle is 
filled, corked, with a small opening in the cork; dig open all the tunnels with your fingers 
until you find a perpenpicular one is found, in or below which they are located, then pour 
about two quarts of water in, and of the bottled stuff two spoonsful on it, and again a little 
water, of which this varmin soon will be up dying. 

They dig the gang-ways only about one inch under ground, meet and breed in or 
near fresh horse manure, of which a quantity of two wheelbarrow's full are buried in a hole 
to cover the manure with six or eight inches of earth; about three or four weeks after, by 
frosty weather, the manure, with all in it, may be dug out and moved away on a solid place, 
where all the worms are killed. 



Lepidopteras are Well Known. 



CATERPILLERS. This insect does the most damage to fruit trees, vegetable and 
plants in a short time after they being out of the larves. 

Also the best remedy found against it, rs to shake them off the trees, pick and kill it. 
This shall be done with papilion, and the eggs of them, which are in general found on the 
under side of leaves, which shall be destroyed. The leaves are, in general, only accidently 
found, and are mostly found on places where not sought for; again, are of about the same 
color as bark, and other places, and material they stick to. 

PAPILION CRATEGI. With black veined, shinning, white wings; the caterpiller 
of makes their appearance by mid-summer, are black when young, after which, they change 
color, reddish yellow on both sides below, and also white haired on the belly, with three 
black marks between same collar over the back; they grow to about two inches long. 

The larves are white and of high yellow collor, with black lines and spots; stick to 
trees and fences. They feed on stone and seed fruit trees. 

As soon as the young worms are hatched out, they begin to work up a silken web 
around them, for a protection, after which, they set at buds and begin to feed, which is 
generally in late summer; through winter their web is closed, but, as soon as nature begins, 
begins to move they are out to feed, and in their home at night. They are also inside by 
raw, rainy weather. As there are from twenty to sixty of one larve, and the same of many 
different kinds, a tree will be without any foliage in a short time. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 115 

All such breeds seen in a web attached at the points of trees, should not be neglected 
to be cut off and burned, or otherwise destroyed. It should be done early in the morning, 
when all are inside the web. 

The papilion, when watched, can sometimes be killed by thousands, the day after a 
rainy clay, when they assemble on leaves of low limbs and near water, with a broom or a 
bunch of brush. 

PAPILIO BRAEECAE. Butterfly or bird, with white wings with black (ends ) 
points, the side en Is are also black on the female; the male is marked with a black spot on 
each wing and with a yellow under end. 

The color of the caterpillar is grayish blue, with three yellow lines over its back. The 
larve is green colored and black spotted, hangs on fences and walls. Cabbage is much 
damaged of this caterpillar through summer and fall. 

The best remedy is to destroy the eggs in time, which sticks at the under part of the 
leaves, strong bluestone solation, applied at outside of leaves, will do good service. 

PAPILIO RAPAE. Is a little smaller than the previous one, with black wing- 
points; the male is also marked with a black spot on each forewing, flies until fall. 

The caterpillar makes its appearance in summer and fall, and is about one and a 
half inch long; feeds on cabbage and turnip. The larve is of same color as the preceding 
one, and found on like places. 

PAPILIO NAPI. Colored with black ends on white wings. The male is marked 
with a black spot on wings, while the female with two or three, with slight green and 
yellow on ends of under wings; flies from spring until mid-summer. 

The caterpillar is slight brownish green, with reddish yellow pores, feeds also on 
cabbage and turnip; the larve is yallowish green. 



Dyurna, Large Butterfly. 



PAPILIO POLICHLORAS. This is a large one, of about two inches broad, oi 
clear, red and yellow color; the caterpillar is dark blue with a rusty color over the back and 
sides, feeds on all kinds of fruit trees, but mostly on cherries, which they fully strip. 

The larve is dark, and marked with gold or silver spots. As long as they are young, 
keep together, and are easily shaken off, picked up and killed. 



ii 4 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

BOMBYX DISPAR. The female is larger than the male, of grayish 
brown forewings, dark shaded and marked with black zigzag square lines 
with a biack middle spot of a hook-shape. The wings of the male are of 
a dirty white color, but clearer marked. 

The caterpillar, of about two and one half inches long, very nu mer- 
ous, marked with three yellow lines over the gray or brown colored body, 
with a big yellow, grayish color and two brown spots. 

The larve is of a quick moving nature, of dark brown color, marked 
with yellow bunches of hair, sticks in a loose, thin web under roofs, joints? 
splits, under leaves, on trees, etc., where the eggs are laid by the papiliom 
which are covered with a woolly or finer sponge-like cover; therefore, this 
kind is called the stem or sponge mott. 

This caterpillar is a numberless one, strips, sometimes, trees, shrubs, 
roses, etc., quite bare. The young caterpillars can easily be destroyed, 
while found in lumps, but difficult after they have spread. 

BOMBYX CHRYSORRHCEA. Papilion is colored dark, brown 
on the wings, the back part of the male is of a dirty, yellow color, by the 
female woolly-like, covered with a bisam-like smell. 

The caterpillar is dark, gray colored, with two red-brown lines over 
the back, covered with clear, brown hair and with short white lines on the 
sides, and is about one and one half inch long. 

The larve is dark brown, with a pointed back end. 

The eggs are found on trees 1 leaves, the end of the larve is woolly 
like, does often great damage to fruit trees by destroying the leaves, blos- 
soms and fruit. 

This kind can be found and destroyed like the previous one. They 
are found in lumps in a grayish colored web. 

BOMBYX AURIFLUA. Is one of the most damaging to trees, 
shrubs and other vegetation. It is nearly of the same color and action as 
the last mentioned, except marked with two black spots on the forewings. 

BOMBYX NEUSTRIA. Is also of the same habit and action, but 
larger, colored from a dirty yellow to a high red on the wings, marked with 
two reddish, yellow lines of a different form, called ring-bird. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 115 

The caterpillar is two and one half inches long, very damaging to the 
most vegetation. The difference of their habit is that they can be found 
easier on the underside of big limbs, and hanging also in great lumps on 
knots, twigs, on the front of trees, where they accumulate through by wet, 
raw weather, and be easly destroyed the morning after. Their color is 
bluish, red, covered with fine hair, with white lines over the body, with 
a bluish, gray head, marked with two black spots. The web of the larves is 
of a purple color and the larve of a high yellow one, easily to see. 

The eggs stick very hard around twigs, limbs and bark, and has its 
name of ringworm (Raupe). Most of the caterpillars have from one to 
two thousand eggs, by which they obtain such a vision to see about them 
and notice all approaches. 

GEOMETRA BRUMATA. Pear mott. It is a common one. The 
female is, instead of wings, covered with a kind of lap, with an irregular, dark 
line over the centre, and can not fly, they change to different 
color to age and time. The male is colored of a yellow, brown earth color 
which is easier to see just before its transformation to a larve, which the 
breed leaves early in spring, which also color with the time, but in general 
gray or half green and yellow, with white lines over its body, besides a 
yellow, greenish one on each side. It is armed on the end with two out 
side bent points. The papilion flies in fall, even in winter, at which time 
they pair and lay eggs around buds and twigs. By tieing a tared band 
around trees, males and females, which travel up and down during the 
night, will stick to this band and can be caught by great numbers. 

GEOMETRA GROSULARIATA. (Harlekin.) The papilion is 
black and of a yellow, spotted body, with white wings, lined half yellow in 
small spots with two yellow lines in front. 

The caterpillar appears early in the fall and changes the skin twice 
through winter, by which time it grows to about two and one half lines un - 
der dropped leaves of the gooseberry and currants. In a course of eight to 
ten weeks it will be one and one half inch in size, which is the time they 
strip cm-rants, gooseberry and other plants clean of foliage. 

To get rid of them the dropped leaves, under which they are hidden, 
must be well cleared off early in spring. 

The plants be dusted with tobacco dust, white heleboro, black paper 
while dewy and well syringed off with a solution of bluestone water and 
vinegar. 



u6 GARDEN. ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

If any caterpillars should be damaging to fruit and forest trees like 
bombyx processionea, effect a strong smoke through the trees, by burning 
moist manure, of which they will drop together and destroy it. 

Black ants gathered into bags in forests and hung at the trees with 
the open sack will do good service. 

DIURNAS. Butterflies. These are of a different size, most of a 
beautiful color, one of over two inches long, cylindric, of a green color, 
yellow reddish points, feeds on tomatoes, potatoes, as caterpillar called so- 
lanum, it is easly detected by seeing tender leaves on tomatoes, eaten off 
near the points, where they are generally found and cut through with a pair 
of scissors. 

BOMBYX PROCESSIONEA. Of which the caterpilars some- 
times are seen in big swarms, destroy most vegetation, besides strips forests 
where it happens they travel through. The foliage is special food for them 
of fruit trees. They travel in a triangular shape . : ; one, two, three 
at the point. 

TORTRIX POMONANA. This kind does great damage to ripe 
fruit by hollowing it out to get the juice and seed of, about which the 
gatherer or eater gets deceived on the fine looking fruit. 

It has been reported that new kinds has been seen, but have not 
been specified, which might be a cross in transformation of any kind if not 
the same as bombyx processionea, as many other new kinds may be but 
unknown; yet, while nobody will look for, and will only be accidently dis- 
covered. In estimating their power of locomotion by comparing the 
length of their body, some surpasses the flight of birds. 

Besides the specified ones, is yet a great number known which could 
be specified, if space and time would permit. 

I find it necessary to name and specify another number and kinds 
of insects, fiends to vegetation, which I term: A Third Part, which cause 
sickness: 

THIRD PART. Insects that cause sickness: Acridim mygrator- 
ium, grasshoppers, locusts, Corculia bug, Lema asparagi, Tetraneura, pruni, 
Tefels pup, Cimex tree bug, Hymetopteras, Bees, Wasps, Ants, Nepidia 
Pinera, Stink bug, Mantida pasmabug, Tiptera bot fly, Anhanipera, Plumbia 
Pudra part parasite, Tlipula olera.cea, Fly tenthreda pini, bug, Dimerus plant 
lice, Coccos bug, Alphis lice parasites, more caterpillars, wasps, Amphibia. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 117 

ACRIDIUM MYGRATORIUM. Grasshoppers. Which are well 
known, and are in color from green to nearly black, are different in size, 
also too well known as a very damaging one when in swarms, which some- 
times travel fast, and no remedy found as yet to prevent it, except by hot 
smoke in a close location. 

HYMEDOPTERA. CURCULIO. Is in shape of a bug, does great 
damage to roots, leaves, young shoots, blossoms and fruit. 

The larve is found in filberts; Curculio nucum, the same in almonds; 
C: pisi, in peas; C: rubri, in raspberry; C: pomerum, in apple and pear; C: 
pruni, in prunes. It is reddish white, which pirces blossoms and fruit. 
Trees should be strongly syringed with bluestone water when in blossom. 
The yellowish white larve is red-haired, sticks to such trees and plants 
mentioned, with which it is often unnoticed it carried indoor in the fall, 
especially C: othischindus and the C: violaceus, which is three times as 
long of a violet color, which works itself into porous parts of plants, bark, 
etc. The bug of this larve appears most times in a bright, copper color, 
armed with a pinch-shaped, pointed tongue, with which the wounds are 
made to deposite the egg. 

LEMA ASPARAGI is about three lines long with a reddish breast, 
yellowish wings; it feeds on asparagus. 

TETRANEURA PRUNI. Tefels pup. Its habit is to pierce buds 
when they swell to blossom, and into leaves, which causes a kind of blister 
called pocket, into which they lay their eggs, which are generally hatched 
out about fall, but the young ones generally remain in it until spring. 

Cimex is about of same size and color, resembles a small bedbug; 
adheres well to the bark of peach, apricot, plum trees, a grayish colored 
one to apples and pears, etc., which suck the substance of trees until dead, 
if not scrubbed off in time by means of a solution of whale-oil soap, blue- 
stone, tobacco water and a brush. Gooseberry, currant, raspberry are 

tronbled of the same. 

■ 

HYMENAPTERAS. Bees, wasps, flying ants. They generally 
damage ripe fruit, or nearly so, but partly can be avoided by hanging ves- 
sels with honey, sugar water, at trees which they like, and get drowned in 
it while unable to get out. 



it8 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

NIPIDIA CINERA. Chinch bug, (stink bug) of which are many 
kinds, from the ash gray to black colored. The gray one is nearly round, 
in size of a cent, stinks, damages melons, cucumbers, squashes, etc.; 
winged, but no wings can be seen before it flies. All of them of any shape 
and size damage vegetable, grain, grass crops, fruit, etc. 

The night or light bug, which damages fruit trees by piercing blossoms 
and fruit, can partly be kept off or" orchards while trees are in blossom by 
keeping a fire on one or two sides of it. 

They are also of a stinking nature; damage grain crops and are 
found next under surface, where they damage crops at the roots, and some- 
times seen in swarms on the tops of crops. There are other kinds, of 
brown, gray, reddish color, but smaller in size and shape. 

They only weaken like some other insects, by moist, cool weather. 

MANTIDA PASMA. They look like sticks by the time their wings 
begin to develop, and are very damaging to vegetables. 

T1PTERA. Bot fly. It is of a dark bluish color, and very des- 
tructive to most all kind of vegetable. 

ANHANIPERA PLUMBEA PUDRA. Is of a dark blue color 
If annoyed without seeing any they rise and disperse like a cloud of smoke 
hidden under bark, leaves, stones, loose growing weeds, plants, etc. They 
mostly live off exodation of plants on moist positions. 

They are shaked and partly reduced by heavy rain. 

THIPULA OLERACEA. This insect is a damaging one to cab- 
bage plants, especially to cauliflower. It lays its eggs on cabbage leaves 
trunks, roots. As soon as the breed is out of the eggs, it eats itself into 
the middle of the plants, through which the sap is partly stopped, by which 
knotty like roots grow, in which worms are found, which in general results 
to a part stoppage or sickly growth and destruction of such plants. The 
larve of this cabbage fly, Ocyptera Brassicaria and Anthomyja Brassica 
generally cause a destruction of whole crops. All plants befallen of it look 
quite flatry after sunrise and are of leaden like color. 

This kind of cabbage fly resembles mosquito. The best remedy 
is: to plant cabbage down nearly to the heart, and keep ' plants moist. 
Meadows and fields get sometimes over swarmed and partly stop their 
growth by feeding on their roots. Some call it the army worm, or fly. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. u 9 

TENTHREDO PINI or NOCTURA PINIPERLA, also, BOSTRI- 
CHUS TYPOGRAPHUS. The first of worm shape. They, as a bug, are 
often seen swarming in pine forests. They pierce the bark in lines like 
printed letters. 

BOMBYX PINI is also to pine trees a very plague in years of dry 
summers; so is Grometra Piniaria. Both of these sometimes destroy other 
vegetation. 

DIMERUS HOMPTHERA. Plant lice. This kind is very injuri- 
ous to most vegetation, especially to vegetables. It even damages roots, 
from which they suck the sap and effect it to flow until vegetation is stopped. 

COCCUS ASPEDIOIDES. Is a bug of brownish gray, rusty color. 
Sucks the substance of a good many hardwooded plants, which has to be 
destroyed by a specified remedy. 

If some limbs or oranges, lemons, etc., suffer, and shall be trimmed 
back, it shall be done a short time before the circulation of the sap, and by 
a calculation that the spot be well filled and formed with a healthy 
growth. 

The useful kinds of the coccus family are those known as cochnill, 
cultivated for the use of color; another is the coccus of the silkworm, feeds 
on white mulberry leaves, which are for the cultivation of silk. 

HEMIPTERAS, APHIS LINN. Are lice; are the cause of some 
atmospheric changes and seem to be part organic. They belay young 
shoots and leaves of trees, plants, of which they suck the substance, by 
which the leaves curl up with a change of color and die. 

The most common and damaging are: Aphis pruni, of a white green- 
ish color, white powdered on plum trees. A: ribes, is also white, green, on 
currants, gooseberries; A: ceraci, on cherry trees, is dark brown on top 
and reddish under its body. A: mali, on apple trees, is of a poor green 
color and of a bluish when it flies. A: bracea, the color of green leaves 
under, with half yellow breast and white powdered. 

Multiplies very fast by moist, warm weather. While it is a winged 
insect it is very hard to destroy. A heavy, cold rain washes it off and are 
part killed. They can be kept off plants as far as possible to ovenvater 
them with tobacco and bluestone water. 



i2o GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Parasites are such which are in general unnoticed. First, there are 
more than three different kinds, look like dust on powder from bluish white, 
which is a stange color; found on roots and on the crown of the root, 
which is by some people called blight, and is found on sickly trees under 
surface. 

A rusty, brown, dust-like stuff is found on some places on the bark 
also some of a dark brown color. There is moss of a grayish white color 
which adheres very solidly to smooth bark, which seems to tighten the 
bark, and also some of other color, which is easy to see, and a tree or plant 
can be relieved of by scrubbing it off with a solution of whale-oil soap and 
bluestone water, or mixed with lime water. 

There are other parasites like the one, caused through some organic 
cause, like mushroom, which is found on trees. It is of a brown and gray- 
ish color. 

A parasite, which is caused by a red spider and extremely atmos- 
pheric changes which is not noticed before damage is done by, and is a 
plague to beans, melons, cucumbers, vines, etc. Spreads very rapidly by 
hot, dry weather. There are more of same nature besides creepers growing 
on trees. 

There are a few kinds of caterpillars, Winders, Wicklers true and 
FoaVs moth, which swing and let themselves on a silken thread from trees 
to the ground to feed as long as they please unless they get aroused, when 
they swiftly draw back upon the tree to the place of safety to which the 
great number of them are armed with, which are Noctua, Pyralis tortris 
tinea, Geometra brumata, Bombyx neustria, etc. 

All caterpillars papilion, and larves of, are called lepidopteras, are 
produced of eggs of various forms and colors, generally cylinderic in form, 
with thick, stout, fleshy limbs, pointed leet, armed with a number of minute 
hooks and powerful muscles. Most of them are leapers, hold themselves 
with the hind feet while they eat the tender foliage, which are the best fit 
for prespiration, give life to the whole plant. Propogate in myriads. They 
are mostly of a soft and are divided into the three specified parts. Butter- 
flies are distinguished to the others by their brilliancy of color. 

The caterpillar has sixteen feet; by the beginning of their transform- 
ation they close themselves up into silky webs, some in the earth, and 
others anywhere above it. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Silk worms are sent great distances in cocoons. 



Vespa Scabra. Wasps. 



VESPA VULGARIS. Large yellow wasp, is a dangerous one, as 
well a smaller yellow one, vespa murrarfa. The second one is very damag- 
ing to fruit and is not easy to destroy, unless in their nest by burning, etc. 

There are some dark colored kinds, but less damaging and less 
dangerous. 

If no nests can be found to destroy them in it, vessels of honey water 
can be fastened to trees, into which they may drop and be drowned. 

AMPHIBIEN, BUFO VULGARIS. Which is by many, held for 
a damaging one; are eating worms, papilions, caterpillars, the egg of the 
first, bugs, their larves, caterpillars and their eggs. The damage they do 
out of door is unnoticeable; if in hotbeds, some few plants may suffer when 
undermined. They are mostly hated about the ugly look of it. 

The frogs are as less damaging; they live off insects and do no harm 
to plants. The green frog is a useful one. lizards, snakes, also do no 
harm to plants, but moles, mice, rats are troublesome and damaging, and 
are of another nature. 

Remedy against mice, rats, are to kill them by poisoning them, and 
otherwise. 

Thin, fresh lime mixed with as much sugar, moistened, made into 
balls like marble and rolled into holes is found a good remedy; lime and 
water, which they must have, will destroy them. Birds may be scared off 
by shooting, or otherwise, if they get at some fruit, like cherries. 

A cultivator has to risk a deal of means, labor and time by an 
expectation to raise a valuable crop, but is often sorely disappointed if he 
forgets to guard against such an army of enemies, especially by dry weather 
by which they hurt vegetation most and when moister is absent for a course 
of time; improper care, neglected, crops are as much as lost. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



Protection and Foresight. 



Land should be free of weed, pits, of rubbish, rotten bark and wood,, 
hopelessly lost plants covered with insects, as cabbage plants, radish, tur- 
nip, rutabaga, etc., which are generally damaged of plantlice, bugs; should 
be burned. Water, should not miss to keep vegetable crop moist with. 

Fresh air r slacked lime, tobacco dust, soot, wood, cinders, etc., also* 
liquid of part poisonous plants, (weed) which are not troubled by insects,, 
and green nut shell of hickory, walnut, wild camamile, wild cucumber, 
stramium, green tomato vines, purplish foxglove leaves, belladonna, tobacco- 
water and dry, should be ready. 

Remedy to protect trees, vines from being damaged of cold and heat: 
A half circle or two boards nailed thusly together with point to it: hold it 
on the ground and with a piece of board on top, tied or tacked to the tree, 
will keep the hot sun off, but coated with a coat of soluted glue, finely 
worked clay, cow drop, or blood mixed well to thick salve, trees, vines well 
coated with from the root up to above the crown. It is one of the best 
protectors against rabbit, wet, sleet and sun through winter, while the other 
is merely to keep the hot sun off. One of common glue at twenty cents, 
soluted with three quarts of hot water, mixed with two-third quarts of 
unclotted blood, the rest of the clay and cow drop, will take three gallon 
salve to coat trees with by means of a strong brush. 

A number of remedies against, and for sickly trees, vines, plants 
could be specified, and more insects also, and how they could partly be 
destroyed. 

Many kinds of grasses and plants for field culture for different use I 
could specify, besides the culture on cotton, castorial plant for oil, ginger, 
peanut, pecon, etc., about which I beg to be excused. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 123 



Thirteenth ZP^dbt. 



Lawn and Pleasure Grounds. 



No matter of what size, shall be laid tastefully and practically. I 
any basin, fountain, water for any use, be laid at a place, as well as pipes, 
be laid to drain the surplus or waste water off. 

The top of such a basin should be on a same level with the top of 
the main entrance step, unless a fountain be put of one solid piece of stone 
or cast iron, which top of the circle may and shall not be higher above 
ground than three to four feet. 

Basins and lakes can be made to any size and shape, of the very 
toughest clay, about ten to twelve inches thick bed, well worked in. The 
same can be paved with small, smooth, flat-like stones or metal of different 
color, or painted, to show like a good, tasteful ornament. 

The cellar window ceils are about within the same level with the 
lowest doorstep from which middle of thickness a line should be stretched 
to an incline to about two and a half inches per ten feet, which shall be 
the grade of the ground to be laid all around the buildings, if the place don't 
lay on low and high grade where walls and steps are needed. 

Drives and walks shall be pegged out in a tasteful shape and con- 
venience, out of which the earth could be used if needed, if not, the grade 
may be made first, so far such earth can't be used, after which, they are 
cut out and formed by paving or concrete it, solidly laid to a slightly oval 
shape, corresponding with the grade, to get easily drained, and without 
weed will grow on them. The ground should be of a substantial nature, 
neither light nor too heavy, of clay, evenly put, and strictly free of any 
particle of wood, to avoid damage by ants, which happens by very dry 
weather, when wood has begun to rot, and the place is not to be kept under 
steady moisture. 



i2 4 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

Flower beds can be formed twelve to fifteen inches from the walks 
and drives, on places of size and shape to a tasteful appearance from every 
•side. The place should be tastefully planted with flowering plants, ever- 
greens, special flowering shrubs and dwarf trees; high shade trees, of strong 
growth, exodes the ground, thrives and shelters insects. 

The edges along walks and drives may be laid of ten or twelve 
inches wide, best blue or lawn grass sod, or the whole may be seeded with 
such grass seed of a known kind of grass for a durable lawn, to suit the 
position and soil. 

Lalium multiflarum submenticum, is the hardiest, aside from the 
blue grass, and the Australian prairie grass, and the Swiss paturin. 

The English rye grass lolium pereune and the Italian rye grass 
lolium Italicum, and Byshops grass, which are of a tenderer nature, and of 
a greener lively green. 

There are a few more kinds suitable for lawns, but none will prove 
satisfactory, if it shall take care to itself by dry weather and perhaps un- 
protected, laid on an unsuitable soil and position, or misused. 

The nature of all kinds of grasses wants steady moisture, mowed, 
•and frequently rolled, also protected through winter, with a light cover of 
manure. 




CARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 125 



T-A.BLE OIE 1 CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

FIRST PART. The Laying-out and Dividing the Land to Stock it, 

according to nature of Positions 5. 

SECOND PART. Natural Forcing, Hot-bedding and Pertaining. . . 6. 

Construction of Single Frames 6. 

Double Frames, Sashes, Covers . . 7. 

The Filling of Frames 8. 

The Mixing of Earth, and Quantity needed, for the different Var- 
ieties of Plants to Force .. . 9. 

What Degrees the different Heating Materials produce, and how 

long they will heat 10. 

Forcing of Asparagus 10. 

" " Seakehl and Peas 11. 

" "Beans " Melons . 12. 

" " Strawberry " Raspberry 13. 

" " Grapevines " Stone Fruit 14. 

THIRD PART. Seed Tasting 15. 

FOURTH PART. Seed Growing {Scorcenary, not Scurcenary) {Sal- 

syfy, not salsifry) {ripening, 7iot ripened) 16. 

FIFTH PART. Change of Culture to Position 17. 

Manuring, Preparing Land 20. 

SIXTH PART. Vegetable and Other Culture 21. 

Long and Stump Rooted Vegetables 21. 

Carrot, Daucus Carrota 21. 

Beet, Beta Cicla Rubra 22. 

Horse Radish, Cochlearia Aromatica 22. 

Oyster root, Trogopagon Porifolius 22. 

Parsley Root, apium Petrosilieum , 23. 

Black Root, Scorceonarie Hispanira 23. 

Parsnip, Pastinaka Sativa 23. 

Chervel Root, Chacrophillum Scandix Bulbosum 23. 

Sugar Root, Sium Sisarum 23. 

Golddistel {Scolimus , not Scotimas Hispanicns) 24. 

Monthly Radish, Raphanus Sativus Radicula 24. 

Raphanus Sativus Linn, Winter Radish 24. 

Rutabaga, Brassica Napus Ratifera (Oleracea) 24. 

Turnip-rooted Cabbage, (Kohlrabi) Brassica Oleracea Rapa .... 25. 



126 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



PAGE 

Turnip, Brassica Rapa Ratifera 25 

Vegetables of useful leaves. Cabbage 25 

Brassica Oleracea Acephala, Green and White Kehl 25 

" " Sabellica, Brown Kehl 25 

Brussels Sprouts, Brassica Oleracea Fruiticosa 25 

Savory Kehl, " Capitata Bulata 25 

Head Cabbage, " ( Wack. not Mackfield) Lsevisa 26 

Spinach, Spinacia Oleracea 27 

New Zealand Spinach, Tetragonia Expansa 27 

Tea, or Crystal Plant, Messembryanthmum Cristaliaum 28 

Sugar Melbe, Artiplex Hortensis (Oriniate, not Oriniates) 28 

English Spinach, Rumex Hortensis 28 

Vegetables with Usable Ribs. Sprouts 29 

Rhubarb, Rheum Undulatum and Ri Ribes Linn 29 

Mangold, Swiss Chard, Beta Cicla {not Ciclee) 29 

Cardoon, Cardun Cardunculus Cinara 30 

Cauliflower, Brassica Oleracea, Botritis Cauliflora 31 

Asparagus, Asparagus Affinalis 31 

Seakehl, Crambe Maritima 32 

Celery, Apium Cravelens and Celriac 33 

Vegetables Usable for Salad 34 

Lettuce, Lactuca Sativa 34 

34 



Endivien, Chicarium Endevia. 

Cichory Root, Chicorium Lintybus 35 

Corn Salad, Plantago Coronapa 35 

Watercress, Nasturdium Officinalis 36 

Bivernelle, Poterium Sanguissorbea 36 

Fruit Vegetables. Beans, Phaseolus (not Fhas kus) Vulgaris. ... 36 

English Windsor or Broad Bean, Vicia Faba. 37 

Sweet Corn (kept, not keps) 38 

Peas, Pisum Sativum (Lor.^ret's. not LondreV s) ( Tetragonalus, not 

Tetragonlalus) 38 

Cucumber, Cucumis oativus 39 

Melon, Cucu-r.is Melo 40 

Egg'.:.^ut, Solanum Melangena 40 

Tomatoes, LycoDersicium Esculenfum (are lost, not best) 41 

Squashes, Cucurbita ? ;no 42 

Pepper, Capsicum Annum 42 

Artichok, Carduus Cinara 43 

Bulbus Vegetables. Onion, Allium Cepa 43 

Allium Fistulasum, Potato Onion 44 

Schalote Onion, Allium Escalonicum (not Ascolotiicum) 44 

Cut Onion, Allium Sahenoparsum 44 

Garlic, Allium Sativum 44 

Leek, Allium Parrum 44 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 127 

PAGE. 

Probascidia Martinia 45- 

Plants to Grow for Manufacturing Purposes to Mix with Coffee, Spanish Tra- 

grant, Astralagus {not Astiagahis) Lacticus 45 

Cicer Pea, Arienticum 45 

Cichory Root, Cichoryom Intibus 45 

Mangold Root, Beta Vulgaris 45 

Carrot, Daucus Corota {not Carata) 45 

Cow Pea, Lupinus Lupinus Leutius {not Lentinns) 45 

Lupinus Albus, Lupinus Angustifolius. Lintefolius, Parsnip, Pastinaca Sativa. .. 45 

Aromatic Herbs for Medical and Other Use 46 

Antheum Graveolence, Dill 46 

Antheum Fsenicolum, Fenkel {not Finkel) 46 

Arthemesia Absintum, Byfuss {not By/ess) 46 

" Dracunculus, Esdragon 46 

" Vulgaris, Beyweiss 46 

Angelica Arangelica, Angelroot 46 

" Hirsuta, ll 46 

Apium Petrosilicm, Parsley 47 

•Carum Carvi, Kimmel 47 

Coriandrum Lativum {not Caritni) 47 

Chenopodium Ambrosioides {not Anbrosioioes) 47 

Centaurea Benedicta 47 

Cochleriana Officinalis 47 

Lepedium Sativum and Latifolium 47 

•Origanum Marjoranoides, Marjolin 47 

Lavendula Spica, Lavendula 47 

Mentha Crispa, Mi nth 47 

" Pepederita, Peppermint 47 

Melissa Officinalis, Balsam 48 

Ocra Combo 48 

Oxalis Acetoselia 48 

Saturija Hortensis, Beankrout. . 48 

Scandix Serefolia, Kerbel 48 

Scandix Alba, White Mustard 48 

Scandix Niger, Black Mustard 48 

Rumex Patientica 4S 

Tanacetum Balsaminata, Mint 48 

SEVENTH PART. Field Culture of Veget ables 49 

Onion, Allium Sativum Cepa Linn 49 

Mangold Root, Beta Vulgaris 50 

Cabbage. Brassica Oleracea, Capitata 51 

Sweet Potato, Convuluvlus Batatum 51 

Navy Bean, Phascelns China Alba 52 

Broad or Romish Bean, Vicia Faba Linn 52 

Peas, Pisum Sctivum Linn 53 



i28 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



PAGE. 

Water Melon, Cucumis Citrulus {Secilien, not Silien) 53.. 

Carrot, Daucus Carrota 54, 

Beet, Beta Cicla 55, 

Rutabaga, Brassiva Nabus Ratifera {not Ratifira) 55, 

Turnip, Brassica Rapa Ratifera 56, 

Potato like bulb. Helianthus Tuberasus 57. 

How to Treat Plants by Transplanting 57, 

Potato, Solanum Tuberosum 58. 

Preparation of Plowed Land 59. 

SECOND PART GRAIN CULTURE 59 . 

Oats, A vena Sativa 59. 

" " Turgida 60. 

" " Georgiana {not Georgiona) 60. 

" " Siberica 60. 

" " Joanett 60.. 

" " Nigra {not Nair) 60. 

Wheat, Barley, Rye, Zea Mais 60. 

Rice, Orisa Sativa Mutica 61. 

THIRD PART OF FIELD CULTURE 61. 

Alapacurus Pratensis {not Alepacarus) ■ 61. 

Prairie Grass, Agrostis Stolonifera 62. 

Herd Grass, Agrostis Dispar 62. 

Prairie Grass, Bromus Pratensis 62. 

Prairie Grass, Festuca Eleve 62. 

Festuca Rubra 62. 

Prairie Grass, Festuca Purpurata 62. 

Timothy, Fleole or Plemn Pratense 62. 

Timothy, Fleole Odorant 62. 

Timothy, Holcus Lantanus 62. 

English Rye Grass, Lolium Perenn 62. 

Italian Rye Grass, Lolium Italicum 63. 

Byshops Grass, Paturin Memorialis 63. 

Prairie Grass, Poa Pretense 63. 

Blue Grass 63 . 

Eleusine Coracana 63. 

Rye Grass, Lolium Multiflorum , 63. 

Hordeum Bulbosum 63. 

Secale Cerial Vermum 64. 

Secale Multicaule 64. 

Secale Romain 64. 

Trifolium Incarnatum 65. 

" Pratense 65 . 

Alba 65. 

" Hybridum 65 . 

" Rubra 65. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 129 

PAGE. 

Trifolium Molineri , 65. 

' ; Elegant 65. 

Medicago Sativa, Lucern - 65. 

" Media or Lucern Rustic 66. 

Falcata 66. 

Hedysarum Onobrychis, Esparetta 66. 

Ulex Europeous, Juniper Shrub 66, 

Food for Stock of Plants of a Vegetable Nature 66. 

Ervum Ervilla 66. 

Faba Vulgaris Equina 67. 

Lentille or Lathyrus Sativus 67. 

Lathyrus Hirsutus 07, 

Lathyrns Cicere 67. 

Pisum Ovense. ... 67. 

Linum Usitatissimun 67. 

EIGHTH PART. Weeding, Thinning {rooted, not rotted) 68. 

Manuring. Plowing 69. 

Kind of Manure and its Nature 70. 

Green Manure 71. 

Plants Which Grow in the Shade 7i. 

When Seed shall be Sown {Sow Melons, Eggplatits, Squashes, 

not Spinach) 71. 

NINTH PART. Hop Culture 72. 

Tobacco Culture, Necotiana Tobacum {worked, not marked) 73. 

Grapevine Culture (page 75 at the end of this culture, will, not 

well) 74 

Pruning 76 

Care while in Vegetation 77 

Acarus Delarius, Red Spider 77 

Agaricus Edulis, Mushroom 78 

TENTH PART. Fruit Tree and Fruit Culture (page 80, fruitecosa, 

not fruitecasi; by peach persica, not pepsica) : . . . 79 

Apple, Pyrus Malus, Pumilus, Pyrus Malus Praccos 80 

Pyrus Malus Fruitecosa 80 

Pears, Pyrus Cummuis 80 

Quince, Cydondia Communis 80 

Peach, Amygdalus Persica 80 

Apricot, Armeniaca Vulgaris 80 

Almond, Amydalus Cummunis 80. 

Prunus Domestica and Prunus Insitita 81 

Persimmon, Piospyrus Virgineana 81 

Cherries, Cerusus (not ( 'orasus) . . Si 

Olive, Oleo Europea (not Furopea) Si 

Dates, Cornus Mas * 81 

Mispels, Mispelus Germanica (misple, not mesple) 81 



130 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 

PAGE. 

Granite Tree, Punicum Granatum 81 

Orange, Citrus Chinoa India 82 

Figs, Ficus Carica 83 

Mulberry, Morus Nigra 84 

Sweet Chestnuts, Castaea Vesca (page 85, lemonsin, not limanson) 84 

English Nuts, Juglans Regia 85 

Filberts, Corylus Tubolosa 85 

Pistacia Pistacia Vera and Lentiscus 85 

Strawberry, Fragaria 85 

Currant, Ribes Rubrum 86 

Alba 86 

Nigra 87 

" " Aurea and Sanguinea 87 

Gooseberry, Ribes Uva Crispa 87 

Raspberry, Rubus Idacus 87 

Blackberry, Rubus Nigrum . 88 

Vinnett, Berberis Vulgaris 88 

Cranberry, Oxicoccus Maccrocarpus (page 90, by flooding, con- 
tinued, not cautioned) 88 

Nursery where Fruit Trees are Raised. 91 

Transplanting Fruit Tree Seedlings 92 

Grafting, Preparation for 93 

Split Grafting, Side Grafting 93 

Grafting by Doubling, Grafting by Coupling 94 

Grafting by Budding, (page 95, when tying the rind, lim tree 

bark, not linn 94 

Cuttings and Layers 96 

Pruning in the Nursery and Place of Bearing 97 

Planting 102 

Labels 102 

ELEVENTH PART. Sick Trees, of Wounds, Fractures 103 

Organic Sickness 104 

Sleet, Pletora, Gangraena, Fluxus Gummosus 104 

Garcioma Tabes 104 

Crispatio Foliorun, Lethargia, Paralesis (not Paralysis) 105 

Albigo, Rubigo, Hamorhagia 105 

Deformation (page 106, pockets, not packets) 105 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 131 



PAGE. 

Suffocation, Anasarca 106 

Milligo, Typanitis , 

Insects, Aphis, Plantlice 

Aphis Cerasi, (on Cherries, left, out) Aphis Ribes, Aphis Mali. . . 

Aphis Brassiaea, on Cabbage , 

Aphis Persian, on Apricots , 

Ants, Aphis Coccus, Coccus Cacti (scraped, not scaped off). .... 

Formica, Ants 

Second Class. Oniscus Asellus 

Oniscus Amadillo, Julius Therestris (not Therestins) 

Scolopandra 

Forficula Auricularia (not Onlicularia) : . . , 

Lumbricus Terrestris, Worms 

Limax Agrestis, Snail (with, not striped 0/such colors) 

May Beetle, Melolantha Majalis 

" " Solstitialis 

" " " Harticola (not Harticola) 

Springer, Haltica Oleracea 

Mole, Cricket, Grilliatalpa Vulgaris 

Lepidopteras, Caterpillars, Papilion, and Larves 

Papilion Crategi 

Papalio Bracecae, Butterfly 

PapiKo Rapae , 

Papilio Napi , 

Diurna, Large Butterfly , 

Papilio Polichorus 

Bombix Dispar , 

" Chrysorraea 

" Anriflua 

" Neustria 

Geometra Brumata, Pear Moth 

Geomatra Grasularia, Harlikin 

Diurnus, Butterflies 

Bombix Processeonea, Swarm Moth 

Tortrix Pomonana 

Third Part of Insects 

Acridium Mygratorium, Grasshoppers 



i 3 2 GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURL. 

PAGE. 

Hymedopteras Curculio. . . . ' 117 

Lema Asparagi 117 

Tetraneura Pruni, Tefels Pulp 117 

Limex, Bug 1-1 7 

Hymenopteras, Bees, Wasps, etc 117 

Nipidera Cinera, Chinch Bug 118 

Mantida Pasma ■. . 1 1 8 

Tiptera, Botfly 118 

Anhananipera, Plumba Pudra 118 

Thipula Oleracea . . . 118 

Tenthredo Pini or Noctua Piniperta . 119 

Bombix Pini 1 1 9 

Dimerus Homphera, Plantlice 119 

C'occus Aspeoides, Bug 119 

Hemiphera Aphis, Linn 1 1 9 

Parasites 119 

Winders and Wicklers of Caterpillars. 1 1 9 

Vespa Scabra, Wasps 121 

Amphibiens, Bufo Vulgaris ' 121 

Protection and Foresight 122 

THIRTEENTH PART. Lawn and Pleasure Grounds 123 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING THE DIFFERENT GRAFTING, 



DOUBLING GRAFT. 



COUPLING GRAFT. 




SPLIT GRAFT. 




BUD GRAFT. 



SIDE GRAFT. 



GARDFN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE, 



ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING THE PROPER METHOD OF CONSTRUCTING SINGLE AND 

INSIDE FRAMES. 




^r^~m 



SINGLE FRAME. 




INSIDE FRAME. 



GARDEN, ORCHARD AND FIELD CULTURE. 



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